tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30934531725251306212024-02-14T00:46:33.016-08:00 Flying GorillaKosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.comBlogger43125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-66158746163592523522024-01-23T01:30:00.000-08:002024-01-23T01:30:35.031-08:0028mm U.S. M151A2 1/4 ton Utility Vehicle and Marine Recon reinforcements <p></p><div></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">New for 2024 is an additional team of United States Recon Marines representing troops as they would have looked in the early 2000s and thus matching the set and sniper already available from <a href="http://www.eurekamin.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=11168" target="_blank">Eureka Miniatures</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">The set comprises six figures armed with the usual M4 variants as well as the ubiquitous M249 SAW.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxFb6HhilOo_F2mIpwRAEh0sze7LOlmsRiZo81msWg5DYcvMxzqayUcBYJ5c-py6lXPgFD4UWwDHgn_R3Q8n1KwrYECnrFPijRwbjYbecKV1R7AV-TL4ORwBjPtWNeatnmEN-U2pKsSJky9zyB19oULcWfL1xWpInw-5o1TYKXvLMKHd1XMN-PNePM_JI/s3761/28mm%20Recon%20set%202.01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1570" data-original-width="3761" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxFb6HhilOo_F2mIpwRAEh0sze7LOlmsRiZo81msWg5DYcvMxzqayUcBYJ5c-py6lXPgFD4UWwDHgn_R3Q8n1KwrYECnrFPijRwbjYbecKV1R7AV-TL4ORwBjPtWNeatnmEN-U2pKsSJky9zyB19oULcWfL1xWpInw-5o1TYKXvLMKHd1XMN-PNePM_JI/w596-h254/28mm%20Recon%20set%202.01.jpeg" width="596" /></a></div><p style="text-align: justify;">For fun I also took some photos of the troops doing what they did best - blending in with the terrain.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcTzPCvAr3ZR0xZPaEYXWtyTT9_wXVeKflkTvk3ktdCBy-GCoWlgeR3vBqJPGXaBKnP2mnvU9ae0BnHlvLp85k535uVhRFk1T4NPHpNq557v3QWAj8tvxnfpiOqpHM30HPa0OGwVWuzq3z0Fu2ZMll0svet43CO0o-ia-FDdfFow8eAMN9xzIx0O4wiQ4/s3578/28mm%20Recon%20set%202.02.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2381" data-original-width="3578" height="393" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcTzPCvAr3ZR0xZPaEYXWtyTT9_wXVeKflkTvk3ktdCBy-GCoWlgeR3vBqJPGXaBKnP2mnvU9ae0BnHlvLp85k535uVhRFk1T4NPHpNq557v3QWAj8tvxnfpiOqpHM30HPa0OGwVWuzq3z0Fu2ZMll0svet43CO0o-ia-FDdfFow8eAMN9xzIx0O4wiQ4/w592-h393/28mm%20Recon%20set%202.02.jpeg" width="592" /></a></div><br /><p></p><div style="text-align: justify;">I also sculpted a 2-man forward observation team with their turn-of-the-century-tech laser designator and radio.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzMQYaovyKXqi32vn0V8R05rtqrO4dhbdtKs9mvh6UvXjaz499_Cdk9EW0X9IfSjOuVx8VSrMxS3AFg643UKVjeexKhtiPD1QUKV4q7WANPVuiq6zvvNMVGx1FMOgDqsowcoLXk7bqL08wgssFyNsBOfxmjN4QjnQwYYndDvdkF1JdAipnNOs9QcYizDM/s1429/Recon%20set%202.03.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1336" data-original-width="1429" height="351" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzMQYaovyKXqi32vn0V8R05rtqrO4dhbdtKs9mvh6UvXjaz499_Cdk9EW0X9IfSjOuVx8VSrMxS3AFg643UKVjeexKhtiPD1QUKV4q7WANPVuiq6zvvNMVGx1FMOgDqsowcoLXk7bqL08wgssFyNsBOfxmjN4QjnQwYYndDvdkF1JdAipnNOs9QcYizDM/w375-h351/Recon%20set%202.03.jpeg" width="375" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;">In addition we have a neat M151 jeep with Marine Recon crew which also comes with the deep-wading equipment as well as crew stowage and crew of three.</p><p></p><div style="text-align: justify;">I made the master for this the old-fashioned way. The wheels were 3D sculpted and printed by my friend Luc. The model is supplied as a one-piece resin casting for the body and white metal wheels, crew and details. I've put together an assembly diagram too which will come with the kit.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg712HzZy3ARjFE_OdFzCOyt-D5xZD_O8BhWdyMHCcpRoEinZT_1kBJdIINWDG7QOpdCk6JZ6Wr9S62Qm8gruFggsR7xxSnLOBUUYIVeGNlTPFaE9VAqaR5gUZcIqqdOHoCG3uPFoJtY6pClQWBerym0oUJfJmzb_b_do-o8jU7FW1but8B2G7zMqkb_Hc/s3064/M151%20and%20Recon.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1690" data-original-width="3064" height="323" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg712HzZy3ARjFE_OdFzCOyt-D5xZD_O8BhWdyMHCcpRoEinZT_1kBJdIINWDG7QOpdCk6JZ6Wr9S62Qm8gruFggsR7xxSnLOBUUYIVeGNlTPFaE9VAqaR5gUZcIqqdOHoCG3uPFoJtY6pClQWBerym0oUJfJmzb_b_do-o8jU7FW1but8B2G7zMqkb_Hc/w585-h323/M151%20and%20Recon.jpeg" width="585" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;">I haven't posted on this blog for so long I'm not sure if Blogger will allow me upload this post!</p><p style="text-align: justify;">If I'm not able to reply to comments I'd like to thank everyone for reading this and for their interest in my miniatures and I hope everyone is well.</p><p style="text-align: justify;">Before the pandemic we had an awful summer of bushfires in Victoria, and along with some pressing and continuing family commitments I have not been motivated to promote my work.</p><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p><br /></p>Kosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-48554898151623784452019-08-03T22:15:00.000-07:002019-08-03T22:16:11.005-07:00Retro 80's time + Blog News<div style="text-align: left;">
<b>Blog News</b></div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">I now have an instagram account...</span></div>
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I'll be posting lots of miniatures that are already in the Eureka catalogue and stuff I've painted for Eureka, as well as scale model stuff, toys from my extremely un-focussed toy collection and maybe images from my book and comic collection too.</div>
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This <a href="https://www.instagram.com/kosta_heristanidis/" target="_blank">link</a> will take you there, or you can search on the instagram app for kosta_heristanidis so please find me and follow.</div>
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Having used the app for about two weeks, the ease with which photos can be shared is pretty appealing, and this is slowly overcoming my natural tendency towards secrecy. This blog will continue, as it's an excellent format for larger posts and continuing projects.</div>
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<b>Takin' it back to the 80's</b></div>
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I've been enjoying Stranger Things 3, and was thrilled to spot men wearing Soviet NBC (Nuclear, Biological, Chemical) gear on-screen. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo649wf3z8N-eM-Vwyp2CyQpbCWwV2GRyXLIWruBWG1vV63U9_05t2-r0ae84rI5yYb7gVqCKB-xez3yP_a85iVVMCw0Gk3_yaIz0KGZcLNP_pdbWc9P99GNJ3KSEXsSNW_P-EjEeG40U/s1600/Sov+NBC+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="753" data-original-width="1280" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo649wf3z8N-eM-Vwyp2CyQpbCWwV2GRyXLIWruBWG1vV63U9_05t2-r0ae84rI5yYb7gVqCKB-xez3yP_a85iVVMCw0Gk3_yaIz0KGZcLNP_pdbWc9P99GNJ3KSEXsSNW_P-EjEeG40U/s400/Sov+NBC+01.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stranger Things 3, episode 5</td></tr>
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Figures kitted out in this fashion made up one of the earliest sets of modern (by which I mean post-WW2, though these models are better described as 'Cold War') soldiers that I sculpted, and I still have a huge fondness for these models.</div>
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With that, I thought I'd share a couple of group photos. </div>
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The range is quite comprehensive, with mortar, Sagger ATGW and DShK HMG teams, as well as flame-thrower, RPG and even specialised radiation-detection troops.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKFcP7pZTQ63XlyBcIupSCt3W7xItnxLTSV_hazxG0YcEmfKQmxNejg28sDIQAfL1ODM6wfAjmKoLyDIcQhYfsnhtA7Oa7MpkeJRdbqM4dN6cgXtP8mFEUpjHmTyyvgi_QpYM9JTh79Sc/s1600/Sov+NBC+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="702" data-original-width="1280" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKFcP7pZTQ63XlyBcIupSCt3W7xItnxLTSV_hazxG0YcEmfKQmxNejg28sDIQAfL1ODM6wfAjmKoLyDIcQhYfsnhtA7Oa7MpkeJRdbqM4dN6cgXtP8mFEUpjHmTyyvgi_QpYM9JTh79Sc/s640/Sov+NBC+02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil_7LAQ81RRClGJEyy0qc1_QI813p1q3BADhY6CP7fpmS1mLorPtkiKSEmuc6GEcyrubYoCauzoHi6D456tSqh0_v7ST0_yV49_-z3buvFXEwqbHzJ5NTBWhs-2KOp1XzTF769kcNz-qg/s1600/Sov+NBC+03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="497" data-original-width="1280" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil_7LAQ81RRClGJEyy0qc1_QI813p1q3BADhY6CP7fpmS1mLorPtkiKSEmuc6GEcyrubYoCauzoHi6D456tSqh0_v7ST0_yV49_-z3buvFXEwqbHzJ5NTBWhs-2KOp1XzTF769kcNz-qg/s640/Sov+NBC+03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here is some of the reference I used when planning this range. Hardback Salamander and Bison books showcasing the world's armies were commonplace in the late 70's and early 80's. I never used to rate them as a kid - but I have a fondness for them now and have collected quite a few.</div>
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'The Footsoldier' by Martin Windrow with illustrations by Richard Hook is a superb illustrated book published in 1982. My local library used to have a tattered copy which I borrowed over and over. I managed to find a second-hand copy in pretty good condition.</div>
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Osprey's 'Inside the Soviet Army Today' by Steven Zaloga with illustrations by Ron Volstad is packed with info, and Volstad's illustrations are always great. Try to get an actual printed copy if you can, as Osprey's 'print on demand' books are pretty flimsy and poorly printed in my opinion.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg87xaPC1yFfiE4lI8ZC_PZ1JVVFYpIESQoK9Rl_lhtwwOiNkOrnbDtxsTTlaaXKq68dbww8rvLDjj2OElz2FF-2t46O6fy-X9MtXVkSXiKoQ6JaQywl7_w8v5hZ7k0brfIHR7ah5mAzaE/s1600/Sov+NBC+06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="622" data-original-width="1280" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg87xaPC1yFfiE4lI8ZC_PZ1JVVFYpIESQoK9Rl_lhtwwOiNkOrnbDtxsTTlaaXKq68dbww8rvLDjj2OElz2FF-2t46O6fy-X9MtXVkSXiKoQ6JaQywl7_w8v5hZ7k0brfIHR7ah5mAzaE/s640/Sov+NBC+06.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJTYEwKWA0-UzJ0plY8K0TJU5fhHdqfQezhbQdbq5-H7jZMEPOrhLnpGw79eikTsrauRDWthFPwgjtojzo6jH9HcPX6yPE1fmYc-EfbdqLhTY5u_RiuWP_nSzgLT8-HrQ9QhcYRH1euHs/s1600/Sov+NBC+05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="945" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJTYEwKWA0-UzJ0plY8K0TJU5fhHdqfQezhbQdbq5-H7jZMEPOrhLnpGw79eikTsrauRDWthFPwgjtojzo6jH9HcPX6yPE1fmYc-EfbdqLhTY5u_RiuWP_nSzgLT8-HrQ9QhcYRH1euHs/s400/Sov+NBC+05.jpg" width="295" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Illustration: Richard Hook</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfMLtUBOtjkreap8mA688gkhflF6iqwPycVZJtrdUKQQPmhSA8NmRVl8RQ6DeXPTyzXUAhyngBrd3x7f5uLEveldWlMMpy39xUCmztFIcU6CSHuLC2g7u5WSrGSGWE3_5kiQ3zdHUQXOk/s1600/Sov+NBC+04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="884" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfMLtUBOtjkreap8mA688gkhflF6iqwPycVZJtrdUKQQPmhSA8NmRVl8RQ6DeXPTyzXUAhyngBrd3x7f5uLEveldWlMMpy39xUCmztFIcU6CSHuLC2g7u5WSrGSGWE3_5kiQ3zdHUQXOk/s400/Sov+NBC+04.jpg" width="276" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Illustration: Ron Volstad</td></tr>
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<a href="http://www.eurekamin.com.au/index.php?cPath=87_126_150_848" target="_blank">Here's</a> a link to where these miniatures can be purchased, so if you're in the mood for some 1980's horror/sci-fi action, you know what to do! </div>
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<br />Kosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-38201655529053349562019-07-08T23:21:00.000-07:002019-07-08T23:26:57.645-07:00Sturmpanzerwagen 563 'Wotan', Part 4<div style="text-align: justify;">
I'm delighted (and relieved!) to present photos of the finished diorama.</div>
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The figures were painted using acrylics (mostly Vallejo plus some GW paints) for the uniform areas, and a combo of enamels and oil paints for the faces and hands. I've posted previously about my technique for painting skin areas <a href="https://flyinggorilla.blogspot.com/2016/04/painting-tutorial-smelly-and-old.html" target="_blank">here</a>, and for the 1/35 figures in this diorama I used the same system, just taking more time with each figure and using more tones.</div>
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I entered the diorama in the Military Dioramas category at the annual Model Expo here in Melbourne, and was super stoked to not only take first place in my category, but also be awarded the People's Choice award for the show.</div>
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A huge 'thank you' to everyone who supported me during the creation of the diorama, especially my wife Lina, and all who voted for A7V Wotan at the show, or spoke to me or commented on the model.</div>
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Thanks!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3SHLEbTiexdg0pSTxtoEoKgzVrGTsPrr9584-nOdXJBTHDbhyvvxODXwPH8JFWJ7DQPmATEYqCdiwTVxjFYqR4xy5IqBoYuBD56w0Oku9C6qbIh9-02XQwfbPgqo-YtPxYNx00uywrtA/s1600/dio+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1022" data-original-width="1600" height="408" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3SHLEbTiexdg0pSTxtoEoKgzVrGTsPrr9584-nOdXJBTHDbhyvvxODXwPH8JFWJ7DQPmATEYqCdiwTVxjFYqR4xy5IqBoYuBD56w0Oku9C6qbIh9-02XQwfbPgqo-YtPxYNx00uywrtA/s640/dio+01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicjL-OfUCPkcSxrssloMgdgN4mIOTLtgbPtwjhhcqiJbm7OE4ftj5GxjYcCXuYjjRXpLqOEO4xJXNJ62sTvewF1AzhgUuwT04tunGN5WcwH5nIT9FPPCOQSFGDj6hhidB4P0UU6xlz67k/s1600/close+04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1079" data-original-width="1600" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicjL-OfUCPkcSxrssloMgdgN4mIOTLtgbPtwjhhcqiJbm7OE4ftj5GxjYcCXuYjjRXpLqOEO4xJXNJ62sTvewF1AzhgUuwT04tunGN5WcwH5nIT9FPPCOQSFGDj6hhidB4P0UU6xlz67k/s640/close+04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />Kosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-24727537287878325402019-06-05T06:16:00.000-07:002019-07-08T23:27:09.925-07:00Sturmpanzerwagen 563 'Wotan', Part 3<div style="text-align: justify;">
This project was inspired by a photograph, but while undertaking the sculpting work for the sixteen figures that I needed, it became clear that I'd also, by chance or design, explored a notion outlined in the classic 'How to build Dioramas' by the late Shep Paine.</div>
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In the book, the author and master model-maker talks about highlighting a vehicle's unusual feature as a way to create interest and illustrate a point about a particular vehicle.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgylGWTfszz1szDvaOAsWqHdZbC-BAfLVwjM86QBJlIMnxfBbDSKcV68aLKJIQ_9AsI5ySHgAJp2u2Sv-PhNwdxCyEh8StXogklw2xdjaG3lH3O8ZoxnguhAw3GnP5xyzF9GR4z9h02e6Q/s1600/How+to..+Dioramas.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="766" data-original-width="589" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgylGWTfszz1szDvaOAsWqHdZbC-BAfLVwjM86QBJlIMnxfBbDSKcV68aLKJIQ_9AsI5ySHgAJp2u2Sv-PhNwdxCyEh8StXogklw2xdjaG3lH3O8ZoxnguhAw3GnP5xyzF9GR4z9h02e6Q/s200/How+to..+Dioramas.JPG" width="153" /></a></div>
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The A7V tank had an official crew of eighteen men, sometimes up to twenty-two would be carried into combat. So... the unusual feature of the tank was it's massive crew, and what better way to display this features than an image of the crew around their vehicle?</div>
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I work as a sculptor of wargaming figures, but even so, sculpting (and eventually painting) the sixteen figures was a huge undertaking. I sculpted them in groups four to keep the project manageable.</div>
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I'm extremely excited to reveal the unpainted figures here for the first time. The images.... </div>
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Below is the first group that I worked on. </div>
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Resin heads from Hornet were crucial for this project. However, their M18 Steel Helmet set only contains five heads, so to avoid duplication of faces plastic heads were also used. </div>
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Some figures, such as the first on the left, have a Hornet helmet atop a plastic head. </div>
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Second from the left is the tank commander, Leutnant Goldmann, according to my reference.</div>
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Figures with peaked caps needed round cockades. These were punched out of lead foil and an indentation was then pushed into the centre with a pin. The piping around the brim was made from super thin copper wire, salvaged from an electrical coil.</div>
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Rather than building the figures over a wire armature, commercial plastic parts were used as much as possible in their construction, mostly from Dragon. Older Dragon bits are easy to spot in orange plastic.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB1BWUJQAVzqq1Va0RJCAjxTdUL-0117P6jrWAcmOnLwcN6UuMnfwtr6W3NuWZY1Thl0SoYkCyI1NJssm3Md_mlAF2F6DD_9tXMSdO3Bxn3ALrUwwxJWcd2iT78fn_UIgMBMOGUVA9pd4/s1600/close+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="682" data-original-width="976" height="444" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB1BWUJQAVzqq1Va0RJCAjxTdUL-0117P6jrWAcmOnLwcN6UuMnfwtr6W3NuWZY1Thl0SoYkCyI1NJssm3Md_mlAF2F6DD_9tXMSdO3Bxn3ALrUwwxJWcd2iT78fn_UIgMBMOGUVA9pd4/s640/close+02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Sometimes I got lucky and could use an arm or leg almost stock, but usually all the detail was ground off and I had to sculpt all the folds and drapery. Even the boots received attention, I re-sculpted all the laces, and added hobnails on the soles using a jewellers beading tool.</div>
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One of my aims was to ensure the figures sat securely and comfortably on the tank, with no unsightly gaps where they interact with the vehicle.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRZtMCB6zyAJZxDZqkLeunTTGAsOkaTVgYFCIxRXJpSED3mbP02VYMZj4eyEmFXvYoOcpoXIcKBPV2StmPSBE0gNxqZ48tR_Yxx6ToUU9e5F0WyRvvpL3xS4FgA6fd338petiXTIquac0/s1600/close+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="856" data-original-width="1280" height="427" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRZtMCB6zyAJZxDZqkLeunTTGAsOkaTVgYFCIxRXJpSED3mbP02VYMZj4eyEmFXvYoOcpoXIcKBPV2StmPSBE0gNxqZ48tR_Yxx6ToUU9e5F0WyRvvpL3xS4FgA6fd338petiXTIquac0/s640/close+01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Figures such as the one below resting his foot on the open door presented an extra challenge, as more points of contact with the tank require constant checking to ensure a natural sit.</div>
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Gas-mask cases are from ICM's WW1 German Infantry Weapons and Equipment, and WW1 Austro-Hungarian Infantry Weapons and Equipment set. The availability of these sets saved me a great deal of work. I did not, however, use the helmets in these sets, opting to keep things uniform by only using the excellent Hornet helmets.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpUJQCzcI6lTIRTSpDYXvOUlKCgif0oqqWKhxdEp5fmUlbduSzTKfddObvOmr4mtfhzh0lVc4eFi58qOCL62KU1vjJj5xslSAQOT60yxa_3aK0neIDKWwuCtBjdlIehzTeGv8CflJXGBg/s1600/close+03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="856" data-original-width="1280" height="427" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpUJQCzcI6lTIRTSpDYXvOUlKCgif0oqqWKhxdEp5fmUlbduSzTKfddObvOmr4mtfhzh0lVc4eFi58qOCL62KU1vjJj5xslSAQOT60yxa_3aK0neIDKWwuCtBjdlIehzTeGv8CflJXGBg/s640/close+03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The standing figure, man seated on hatch, man sitting and resting his hand on the tank and man with peaked cap in the hatch were the final figures sculpted.</div>
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All sixteen figures wear the simplified late war 'bluse'. Buttons on pockets and shoulder straps were made from punched-out plastic, and all buckles on the pistol holsters and straps were made from tiny squares of plastic, with a small putty blob in the centre.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCbRlbgekAllLCEQ0KJFX5-CCO106Swq9_JM_SNL2Iv2qfAk_0i-l73M_ZJMSVESLn6JphnYXYJBRgMpCqv4K6WFBSv8HueY_sw7_tWpQmQGfRJwB8U_ft_sZm7Qm8yuYcw5Mk85xri3Y/s1600/close+04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="778" data-original-width="1252" height="396" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCbRlbgekAllLCEQ0KJFX5-CCO106Swq9_JM_SNL2Iv2qfAk_0i-l73M_ZJMSVESLn6JphnYXYJBRgMpCqv4K6WFBSv8HueY_sw7_tWpQmQGfRJwB8U_ft_sZm7Qm8yuYcw5Mk85xri3Y/s640/close+04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So there you have it. I took a bunch of 'in progress' shots of these figures which I may post in the future, but I'll leave it at that for now.</div>
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Coming soon: the completed diorama.</div>
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<a href="https://flyinggorilla.blogspot.com/2018/06/sturmpanzer-a7v-563-wotan-part-1.html" target="_blank">Sturmpanzerwagen A7V 563 Wotan, Part 1</a></div>
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<a href="https://flyinggorilla.blogspot.com/2019/06/sturmpanzerwagen-563-wotan-part-2.html" target="_blank">Sturmpanzerwgen A7V 563 'Wotan', Part 2</a></div>
Kosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-53169857418851543982019-06-04T07:18:00.001-07:002019-07-08T23:21:59.692-07:00Sturmpanzerwagen 563 'Wotan', Part 2<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://flyinggorilla.blogspot.com/2018/06/sturmpanzer-a7v-563-wotan-part-1.html" target="_blank">A year ago</a> I wrote and posted pics of this ongoing mega-project focussing on the genesis of the project and building the interior. An excellent new 1/35 scale model is available from Meng Models, but I began my project before this kit was available and so am using the ancient Tauro Model kit as the basis for the model.</div>
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This post I'll talk about the exterior of the model, but I'll also talk about the final small items that were placed inside before buttoning the whole thing up.</div>
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For those not familiar with the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A7V" target="_blank">A7V</a>, it was the only tank made for and used by the Imperial German Army during World War 1. Only twenty vehicles were produced and the sole surviving example now resides in the Queensland Museum, Brisbane.</div>
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I built and detailed the running gear in the Tauro kit, and as can be seen below these end up way longer than the correctly-sized Meng running gear. A friend generously donated his Tauro A7V kit to me, so I was able to rebuild the running gear, and replicate the way it's attached under the tank correctly.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-Bnsz5G2Soz6XUWQ7gyrNPDaU3CrQgm8fGAXs91K25fLzTSYF7CQ6HMPrnXEHK6a0OermrCJEaJnhS50yXixhAnpkAaGjczwyA3nHSvBNouW8JC2IIbTXcbZAp4wiA-aHQfW9rkB5kyk/s1600/Meng%253ATauro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="590" data-original-width="1280" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-Bnsz5G2Soz6XUWQ7gyrNPDaU3CrQgm8fGAXs91K25fLzTSYF7CQ6HMPrnXEHK6a0OermrCJEaJnhS50yXixhAnpkAaGjczwyA3nHSvBNouW8JC2IIbTXcbZAp4wiA-aHQfW9rkB5kyk/s640/Meng%253ATauro.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The second Tauro A7V kit was moulded in grey, rather than sand styrene. <span style="text-align: justify;">I used the unseen wheels from inside each Meng bogie, so had enough wheels that would fit the Meng tracks.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6IW43TPsj5ExdUu38RjUQxlICWt7_3B8TpPj3viWV0uCEO-2N2dseID_c7-VoA5sgpozIxSuoepjHdUY6ckywPIVADWfQyWw6S4IpQtoIVG7m05Q93XlU8bpSS2RE46h4-IVF5WT7KU4/s1600/Wotan+bogies+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="825" data-original-width="1280" height="412" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6IW43TPsj5ExdUu38RjUQxlICWt7_3B8TpPj3viWV0uCEO-2N2dseID_c7-VoA5sgpozIxSuoepjHdUY6ckywPIVADWfQyWw6S4IpQtoIVG7m05Q93XlU8bpSS2RE46h4-IVF5WT7KU4/s640/Wotan+bogies+01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">The old Tauro kit provides actual springs for the bogies, but the springs on the real tank feature much thicker and squarer coils. I made a new spring from Milliput and had it custom cast at Eureka Miniatures.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZGR0XxWLkHk-9ZYLBfIup2iiqaJ1uY-sYmJN60Xrg-KPsEB84IunIxI3cx_PezPk4UQV6t1VEhjPxoqtuel6x66OG2YOpVrHaJTo-acUIXyh_XUbQEnH52Yq0g5JKSN9zNvAuXh4IbO8/s1600/Wotan+bogies+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="896" data-original-width="1280" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZGR0XxWLkHk-9ZYLBfIup2iiqaJ1uY-sYmJN60Xrg-KPsEB84IunIxI3cx_PezPk4UQV6t1VEhjPxoqtuel6x66OG2YOpVrHaJTo-acUIXyh_XUbQEnH52Yq0g5JKSN9zNvAuXh4IbO8/s640/Wotan+bogies+02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Tauro's idler and sprocket wheels are too small in diameter. </div>
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The photo below shows a Tauro idler, my scratch-built idler, and the correctly-sized Meng idler. I'd have to fudge the size of the idler a little, but since only a portion of the circumference is visible on the finished model it's very hard to tell it's undersize. </div>
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Correcting the suspension and resolving the dimensional issues was one of the biggest challenges of making a more accurate A7V from the Tauro kit.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin0O6yD-pLHEVnRE5KpQwd2M9S7xzFpVaoP4YebnN-BbpSjhx0PDzxEokXWfKFriKcd1xNrISD8Lvjpq0l6YzQya7FJZzVIYoGuNPT0mG5BObsnW67Qwm36vyesVQcnAu_ivsksvPyhyphenhyphens/s1600/Wotan+idler+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="556" data-original-width="1280" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin0O6yD-pLHEVnRE5KpQwd2M9S7xzFpVaoP4YebnN-BbpSjhx0PDzxEokXWfKFriKcd1xNrISD8Lvjpq0l6YzQya7FJZzVIYoGuNPT0mG5BObsnW67Qwm36vyesVQcnAu_ivsksvPyhyphenhyphens/s640/Wotan+idler+02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiIna_5KXGy0bW1m-1VcR4015UYFbARUOkTQWew7lrqRI_zBLqcmcRys1zc-Lyij360Oq69Nby8iIcOSUnBTf55JowfR2a8KEOknZr1x04nAzAwVjVrZY3VJUlvCXqsiASyu_7oFmUiRo/s1600/Wotan+idler+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="695" data-original-width="1280" height="346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiIna_5KXGy0bW1m-1VcR4015UYFbARUOkTQWew7lrqRI_zBLqcmcRys1zc-Lyij360Oq69Nby8iIcOSUnBTf55JowfR2a8KEOknZr1x04nAzAwVjVrZY3VJUlvCXqsiASyu_7oFmUiRo/s640/Wotan+idler+01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii0HWKl58LkGSwzMkgbls_uSoaG6UREU_7R51cAF2_GXERrBrqBwbsciFgxzDM6UQsbzKaz5ooJDbg0O2WAXr-QdGTS4r6GDK6cKulieRLGSdKWBs0NNYfin9LbX_j7y77eRRlKIJktiA/s1600/Sprocket+and+Idler.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="694" data-original-width="1280" height="346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii0HWKl58LkGSwzMkgbls_uSoaG6UREU_7R51cAF2_GXERrBrqBwbsciFgxzDM6UQsbzKaz5ooJDbg0O2WAXr-QdGTS4r6GDK6cKulieRLGSdKWBs0NNYfin9LbX_j7y77eRRlKIJktiA/s640/Sprocket+and+Idler.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here are the finished bogies before painting and instillation. Meng styrene and Master Club resin bolts were used for detailing. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkRSQX6rXLbUfA8VoQUrgdoU8SE3cz_OZ3luxJ5_XHqAtEmRGs0dr3Z9ZeG6t_MowKvJsHd_ybvPIF8W2JzRKK5i0RI9bgzz7xq96HzyNreefjEenwnVPNedpTC-idMI6_0RWbUoJ_KTA/s1600/Wotan+bogies+04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="544" data-original-width="1196" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkRSQX6rXLbUfA8VoQUrgdoU8SE3cz_OZ3luxJ5_XHqAtEmRGs0dr3Z9ZeG6t_MowKvJsHd_ybvPIF8W2JzRKK5i0RI9bgzz7xq96HzyNreefjEenwnVPNedpTC-idMI6_0RWbUoJ_KTA/s640/Wotan+bogies+04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Each of the twenty A7V tanks is different, so constant checking of the excellent references now available was crucial to ensure the accuracy of details. As can be seen below, the four hull sides are from the Tauro kit. The large hull side plates were shortened on their top edge, as they were too tall.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH3itLbzmCUW8SpedmuBNMKl3PYmSguB2hywCaUUz7xkpBdCCoUINITWFj5ELFfO3TXzib3EXnxWmGNmcNkH-MLuSTPT1svShliMK0ZwLp75jjGk3MyBJVAF-cg8WnM6GBPHlcRTrpDGo/s1600/Master+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="856" data-original-width="1280" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH3itLbzmCUW8SpedmuBNMKl3PYmSguB2hywCaUUz7xkpBdCCoUINITWFj5ELFfO3TXzib3EXnxWmGNmcNkH-MLuSTPT1svShliMK0ZwLp75jjGk3MyBJVAF-cg8WnM6GBPHlcRTrpDGo/s640/Master+02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The front and rear roof as well as the command cupola were completely scratch-built. Bolt detail removed from the kit parts as well as on the scratch-built areas was achieved using the amazing Master Club bolt and rivet sets. These are installed into a drilled hole, so very careful measuring and marking for placement was required.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTkwl51I_ZGdy_A1Es9sezfuEepMYsnCXFbg4-82ezxyliGEpId6OFLwgSt_46qwnhYX3zC6As8X2ozZGACcnJoKZF9NJTtZ2OzscudZ2A58zf2RAFBF-aVJz6bPS_asix-rOxuct6pXA/s1600/Master+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="856" data-original-width="1280" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTkwl51I_ZGdy_A1Es9sezfuEepMYsnCXFbg4-82ezxyliGEpId6OFLwgSt_46qwnhYX3zC6As8X2ozZGACcnJoKZF9NJTtZ2OzscudZ2A58zf2RAFBF-aVJz6bPS_asix-rOxuct6pXA/s640/Master+01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Domed, hexagonal, and hex with protruding bolt were all used to match reference. The guides for the vision port covers, two for each aperture, were individually filed to shape from flat tin.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5wwHall-hIvG5zQF6TwdL73u_MqZsM4y38bmQHo_Elk6vyfp0TyOSLv4mTA1DnMF9pAq3m1Uav6nNUDwCSqOzlMwc1YSWoXAWEp4pngN1SYmoa9xJHhVJTmjdFfsOJvWw0om_JbV1QKs/s1600/Cupola+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="775" data-original-width="1280" height="386" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5wwHall-hIvG5zQF6TwdL73u_MqZsM4y38bmQHo_Elk6vyfp0TyOSLv4mTA1DnMF9pAq3m1Uav6nNUDwCSqOzlMwc1YSWoXAWEp4pngN1SYmoa9xJHhVJTmjdFfsOJvWw0om_JbV1QKs/s640/Cupola+01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Tank 563 'Wotan' had applique armour on the cupola, but photos show it on only three sides.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpW781OReFglcjj3t7miXRQ87jmlt0iSaGvHkz9iRkRV8zWbiyhNG-p48qJ_feaUBLCx2Z8-ZqZgpMCiem7GR9UJTudjZRj8R0J-L4oifQ3qretJTeXqN3fHdPEenKKVg_dKj2eMlAna4/s1600/Cupola+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1042" data-original-width="1280" height="520" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpW781OReFglcjj3t7miXRQ87jmlt0iSaGvHkz9iRkRV8zWbiyhNG-p48qJ_feaUBLCx2Z8-ZqZgpMCiem7GR9UJTudjZRj8R0J-L4oifQ3qretJTeXqN3fHdPEenKKVg_dKj2eMlAna4/s640/Cupola+02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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It took me a while to settle on a way to make the many hinges on the model. I used 1mm round copper tube from Albion Alloys for these. The demarcations between the hinge segments were filed in using a jewellers tool called a gapping file.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJygeDvwM748NPHTVrP9htH_EHJCzq_sRtYMD_IOSUVbMmlitubKA5_K3VAf6bzv47EYtnoPrYpHWB9o4JVCn-i1ng9hFwLpYU8RK0ycRU1IpTQxgo_SJsrbJgcwEepzNrouvhgbmgRrY/s1600/Cupola+03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="1280" height="366" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJygeDvwM748NPHTVrP9htH_EHJCzq_sRtYMD_IOSUVbMmlitubKA5_K3VAf6bzv47EYtnoPrYpHWB9o4JVCn-i1ng9hFwLpYU8RK0ycRU1IpTQxgo_SJsrbJgcwEepzNrouvhgbmgRrY/s640/Cupola+03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Using a pin with the end filed, held by a pin vice, I was able to hold the copper tube steady to cut in the details with the 0.5mm gapping file. Also below are the micro drills used to add the smallest bolts. The Tamiya micro drills are readily available from model shops.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-29Vzo4Ure55wiH7xEDA2cpbQtQZCdeIA0WaMxt48tNRIvv9iw65X8MuR6cGSJlaWCMInoSSEkS3SwITG_KHHieA2IpdysZ3SHlgUK6N1Ko0w-XQ_WCf36X2pAYYoywEX-vEXKRFuJXE/s1600/Cupola+05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="856" data-original-width="1280" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-29Vzo4Ure55wiH7xEDA2cpbQtQZCdeIA0WaMxt48tNRIvv9iw65X8MuR6cGSJlaWCMInoSSEkS3SwITG_KHHieA2IpdysZ3SHlgUK6N1Ko0w-XQ_WCf36X2pAYYoywEX-vEXKRFuJXE/s640/Cupola+05.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirLBA1jYkgtj0ek0tZrKSgzcGhYuF9NT0TUGPUeVCMKeCHPmmQ6crb-7VByyxF-5OmJdbg82vcDCy9rQf6hDk_FMxOwfCwSqPZh2X5so-WphLNf4LdPxWbgfXqbnmt5MUY0Nck8bkRsqM/s1600/Cupola+04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="692" data-original-width="1280" height="345" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirLBA1jYkgtj0ek0tZrKSgzcGhYuF9NT0TUGPUeVCMKeCHPmmQ6crb-7VByyxF-5OmJdbg82vcDCy9rQf6hDk_FMxOwfCwSqPZh2X5so-WphLNf4LdPxWbgfXqbnmt5MUY0Nck8bkRsqM/s640/Cupola+04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Ventilation louvres are cut into the roof.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihcjap4Omshzc69drMINe-od06UaHHxlK49IlwiOK5PP2rUQeNa-4ASwouhmSV1ZgomUB9mjlHLowM7zpaqxKXJGU9WssggmQrcFnJ1K6XVFzvSouMgFjdQJxpf7QhkZuxfmPSOwBbHyo/s1600/Roof+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1280" height="450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihcjap4Omshzc69drMINe-od06UaHHxlK49IlwiOK5PP2rUQeNa-4ASwouhmSV1ZgomUB9mjlHLowM7zpaqxKXJGU9WssggmQrcFnJ1K6XVFzvSouMgFjdQJxpf7QhkZuxfmPSOwBbHyo/s640/Roof+01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZHYvs4s9SM0v9xxzDOyS0CrO690b0xcsQGD2KaIGIkaxzSHB7NV_BRRMKZg-UG-W16SKcTnLE0i4w8d93hvPmu2UfZw1bEPBvnaCrxTm60TkgBd-96eicRIIWH8LIVRjn-vcfBELk8Nw/s1600/Roof+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="834" data-original-width="1280" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZHYvs4s9SM0v9xxzDOyS0CrO690b0xcsQGD2KaIGIkaxzSHB7NV_BRRMKZg-UG-W16SKcTnLE0i4w8d93hvPmu2UfZw1bEPBvnaCrxTm60TkgBd-96eicRIIWH8LIVRjn-vcfBELk8Nw/s640/Roof+02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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'Wotan' featured long, continuous louvre covers, different to the segmented type in the Meng kit.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMviOGqUeKl8R2cVtlenAVy2qYPXzpM9sLh5RDeuZDN16MxoL4ZB9f3v4ZcvBDia4cbl5Z42FhFwnNlmi5YK7lPPRFXX_N3ZgP8H2FCfyUADzaPfGk3m6O156qhbTH_AbMsymPD2rhO8E/s1600/Roof+03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="847" data-original-width="1280" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMviOGqUeKl8R2cVtlenAVy2qYPXzpM9sLh5RDeuZDN16MxoL4ZB9f3v4ZcvBDia4cbl5Z42FhFwnNlmi5YK7lPPRFXX_N3ZgP8H2FCfyUADzaPfGk3m6O156qhbTH_AbMsymPD2rhO8E/s640/Roof+03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_uJqYpCb4KYrMfU9gUja-M22gR1sfPJ1T5OWmz2apeLLd3PctBpAGyUkuOW-SNdNDaXMtpJ-_5f_qZXR_vp8270JmfmAvg-ujKg-dCdz-7a-CrroKxTw-R6d4PTUZo8NwLSXJltuFm5E/s1600/Roof+04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="805" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_uJqYpCb4KYrMfU9gUja-M22gR1sfPJ1T5OWmz2apeLLd3PctBpAGyUkuOW-SNdNDaXMtpJ-_5f_qZXR_vp8270JmfmAvg-ujKg-dCdz-7a-CrroKxTw-R6d4PTUZo8NwLSXJltuFm5E/s640/Roof+04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Suspension, Hull armour, roof and cupola all sorted out, many of the smaller details could then be tackled. Below are the hinged covers for the idlers and sprockets. The hinges were made as described above. Bolts shaved from junked models were also used in some places.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Jxcg7MSA9PveInCHvhVmtRiBCbNpCsd4DzF_7OGmXyUtPE28HhA7GXczc6xb3QinACU1X3526AGtTjkZHXQPUeJT1FA9mbTWOTW3B9tzZxIS2lEm5Ii3j4B8eLkjdDMMyr8u2jLt4t4/s1600/Detail+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="529" data-original-width="903" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Jxcg7MSA9PveInCHvhVmtRiBCbNpCsd4DzF_7OGmXyUtPE28HhA7GXczc6xb3QinACU1X3526AGtTjkZHXQPUeJT1FA9mbTWOTW3B9tzZxIS2lEm5Ii3j4B8eLkjdDMMyr8u2jLt4t4/s400/Detail+01.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Tiny hooks used to hold open the suspension covers, as well as the small covers for the engine-mechanic's hatches. The rods attached to chains were (I believe) used to holt open these small hatches.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZECroP6OXbFVaEPDL3GNgajCVwM4Z8YIFn1Kuyvfm7L3zkXqOsXHys8ZyCAGFTvxGQ6nfCb1vjm2Kxa8ro1IS-2XAHFl8psgT1JlSDp-NxWI59-6khlMbcVW4kM3G1wFCG1KARhDv3sI/s1600/Detail+03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="391" data-original-width="676" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZECroP6OXbFVaEPDL3GNgajCVwM4Z8YIFn1Kuyvfm7L3zkXqOsXHys8ZyCAGFTvxGQ6nfCb1vjm2Kxa8ro1IS-2XAHFl8psgT1JlSDp-NxWI59-6khlMbcVW4kM3G1wFCG1KARhDv3sI/s400/Detail+03.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Inside and outside faces of the mechanic's hatches, side doors and assembled cupola vision port covers. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRO-nzkXKW0jpbo5PexJ2Y6LAi7w7VxfmleWt6JqiHGYGLKJ6m-Q8DWiHUTqX3fOo4G9-DX8Kj1q-1RnJ6B-f7sUGfmjLME8Uvm-OZ666EiBJxamI8HeGIMDS7NP4rvt3aP0QLXDkC8QU/s1600/Detail+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="312" data-original-width="571" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRO-nzkXKW0jpbo5PexJ2Y6LAi7w7VxfmleWt6JqiHGYGLKJ6m-Q8DWiHUTqX3fOo4G9-DX8Kj1q-1RnJ6B-f7sUGfmjLME8Uvm-OZ666EiBJxamI8HeGIMDS7NP4rvt3aP0QLXDkC8QU/s400/Detail+02.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZhbv_8oaxkgA3yF7kpEQmRkf9PedXo3xE-yyOqtqJpUG3T6uJve2P4KucOSixwuTGiV1Tfry83KaDe5KzqlXKev6MbpA4Y_q7OH-rsqETSjwe-N4IcQYeiN8V8kRbsB2-6cSpqV7k6LM/s1600/Detail+05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="654" data-original-width="1280" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZhbv_8oaxkgA3yF7kpEQmRkf9PedXo3xE-yyOqtqJpUG3T6uJve2P4KucOSixwuTGiV1Tfry83KaDe5KzqlXKev6MbpA4Y_q7OH-rsqETSjwe-N4IcQYeiN8V8kRbsB2-6cSpqV7k6LM/s400/Detail+05.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Front and rear tow shackle covers. These were made from some scrap photo-etch that I had in the spares box, cut to shape and attached to copper hinges.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicgHjqJ15SjmZVqb22OidBZnnE_MPaFrE6DhDIV8dAMNEwMD9QnXhmsZRgpF7jMEpSdqaCs9-C4x5RfnMi8WkHQuXLxtq3h_KuL1LyhiGnrqmpRzi7cQMWOXv0LdfaFSkT82cSwWqBYPg/s1600/Detail+06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="857" data-original-width="1280" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicgHjqJ15SjmZVqb22OidBZnnE_MPaFrE6DhDIV8dAMNEwMD9QnXhmsZRgpF7jMEpSdqaCs9-C4x5RfnMi8WkHQuXLxtq3h_KuL1LyhiGnrqmpRzi7cQMWOXv0LdfaFSkT82cSwWqBYPg/s400/Detail+06.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgprPZs4wG7mp2TqPbgQGsthcbnQJ9VgSQ9bUBxH4L9ZlyMfvG1YYT36PnUGjdGXFicEDk0F2q-Q8G6jzeXzzWiI8SWtELPeVsMlTr-VVDu5jlhpmPLpGcaSFPI1O75HLXE2wO9P3ZO1q8/s1600/Master+04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="795" data-original-width="1280" height="396" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgprPZs4wG7mp2TqPbgQGsthcbnQJ9VgSQ9bUBxH4L9ZlyMfvG1YYT36PnUGjdGXFicEDk0F2q-Q8G6jzeXzzWiI8SWtELPeVsMlTr-VVDu5jlhpmPLpGcaSFPI1O75HLXE2wO9P3ZO1q8/s640/Master+04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I decided to paint he model in sub-assemblies. They were given a couple of light coats of Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, straight out of the rattle can. For the markings, I carefully cut some masks using Tamiya masking tape, basing them on photos of 563 'Wotan' and on the decals in the Meng kit. The maltese crosses on the real tank would have been painted by hand, and are not perfectly symmetrical. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO5X2fz6ixdpiDVxGRRj9eqfi4ahYx8TE0lRgliD3DIYyQuvkozMA0t-fg6Qe2aukmp0YCVqSD8CjmvmlpE8QHo4qsHk1TPeuKYIN70pivUjR8RN3olmUYsYQhuP8AOXYWPTBz5xPoUtY/s1600/Final+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="856" data-original-width="1280" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO5X2fz6ixdpiDVxGRRj9eqfi4ahYx8TE0lRgliD3DIYyQuvkozMA0t-fg6Qe2aukmp0YCVqSD8CjmvmlpE8QHo4qsHk1TPeuKYIN70pivUjR8RN3olmUYsYQhuP8AOXYWPTBz5xPoUtY/s640/Final+01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Once the grey undercoat had cured for 24 hours, I sprayed the the base colour using a mix of Tamiya XF-25 Light Sea Grey and XF-73 JGSDF Dark Green. The interiors of the maltese crosses and individual number were then hand painted with Vallejo acrylics.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwnMVbAcuyD-HKT7jQAR5f3suAdA6Y7rAcAz_-vQCdb_09_xr6I8jH9YRT9ulKRjiP0NWY62NPjHS7pO5rTd_dZLxnVnsWPAn4naI5flTo4BydDw1-yX2tHt59HSoQKk8WVclXOMlA8pk/s1600/Final+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="624" data-original-width="1002" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwnMVbAcuyD-HKT7jQAR5f3suAdA6Y7rAcAz_-vQCdb_09_xr6I8jH9YRT9ulKRjiP0NWY62NPjHS7pO5rTd_dZLxnVnsWPAn4naI5flTo4BydDw1-yX2tHt59HSoQKk8WVclXOMlA8pk/s640/Final+02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwI4PYoEbnxXDkM5qfuBmMajpVeZO6g2kCEV3dH_meiBE3vIlzk6TqxkMhEGsSXuUOvgUppcFmVbZmeVh49N42qnuTHy6I1Ji26wOi5_NxkChP01k6R72yXhVZH2JbABlrRnJIPUISONM/s1600/Final+04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="857" data-original-width="1280" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwI4PYoEbnxXDkM5qfuBmMajpVeZO6g2kCEV3dH_meiBE3vIlzk6TqxkMhEGsSXuUOvgUppcFmVbZmeVh49N42qnuTHy6I1Ji26wOi5_NxkChP01k6R72yXhVZH2JbABlrRnJIPUISONM/s640/Final+04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyZTSXWjd7DOLNRfT3HyZB_b95JwmTr1L6gqaFKSVgDpUgVXRsBThs5jATGVMAP5Myy43aiIpmBlmr3W9MWSqcJX8EteroCIzErHNh-BeDe1CPxA6cXvdizS213sNMcRST-NaRQRGET3w/s1600/Final+03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1278" height="404" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyZTSXWjd7DOLNRfT3HyZB_b95JwmTr1L6gqaFKSVgDpUgVXRsBThs5jATGVMAP5Myy43aiIpmBlmr3W9MWSqcJX8EteroCIzErHNh-BeDe1CPxA6cXvdizS213sNMcRST-NaRQRGET3w/s640/Final+03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1EPPw-pu0B5e5jNHFujQXjRxTsH145lSuGZLH_oSAeGLPD-b61TjqLnFYCaMyP-7yYXmfH9CE8ehJ0XHgzSr4uMu42bkRTg3MNG9_QyrDTKggqu4_TEVWfGHpPvI91-hvD5D6X2fFeqE/s1600/Final+05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="834" data-original-width="1280" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1EPPw-pu0B5e5jNHFujQXjRxTsH145lSuGZLH_oSAeGLPD-b61TjqLnFYCaMyP-7yYXmfH9CE8ehJ0XHgzSr4uMu42bkRTg3MNG9_QyrDTKggqu4_TEVWfGHpPvI91-hvD5D6X2fFeqE/s640/Final+05.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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It was always my intention to close up the model once the interior was complete. Even so, i wanted it to be complete in every detail. Accounts from A7V tanks in action mention crewmen exiting the tank to clear obstacles and so I reasoned that some pioneer tools may well have been on board. I also made some tool boxes since the engines in WW1 tanks needed a lot of attention.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicuiDIGQYVadk16Nz5rXrknauvuzgAbydG25BW3LPH9WmzeyEqM1iIsi1UwqYW0Z7YVsOufInViBmeLumNQgDw1xHk0VwRJ3CbShZxisSSSyv5h3utKEShyphenhyphen92ICNRrC1J6exgtrXQPqkI/s1600/Bonus+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="876" data-original-width="1280" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicuiDIGQYVadk16Nz5rXrknauvuzgAbydG25BW3LPH9WmzeyEqM1iIsi1UwqYW0Z7YVsOufInViBmeLumNQgDw1xHk0VwRJ3CbShZxisSSSyv5h3utKEShyphenhyphen92ICNRrC1J6exgtrXQPqkI/s400/Bonus+01.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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A photo of 'Wotan' shows a large squarish box near one of the side doors, and a look through my reference brought up some German grenade boxes that looked to be the same shape. The grenades are from one of the WW1 accessory sets from the Ukrainian firm ICM.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirpQxWQbjHM5iv9NgRYM9mE8MTHa51G86bY3Bu42g8vr5YoF5Bu-RlIkvbNICuhRdbHYjsfOU5HyAQj4aOz3UBCzKWdCvu9k4xXjQgqpDIsKpeqoSdRYqFzdjOiAGnXsdg-fqU7t4TIRI/s1600/Bonus+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="879" data-original-width="1280" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirpQxWQbjHM5iv9NgRYM9mE8MTHa51G86bY3Bu42g8vr5YoF5Bu-RlIkvbNICuhRdbHYjsfOU5HyAQj4aOz3UBCzKWdCvu9k4xXjQgqpDIsKpeqoSdRYqFzdjOiAGnXsdg-fqU7t4TIRI/s400/Bonus+02.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Since the model would be placed in a diorama, I thought that it may be useful to have a bicycle to help fill any empty space. This is an item from Master Box, another Ukrainian firm. The photo-etched spokes, chain and sprocket all come with the kit, and it's a really sweet miniature bike model.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTI7bt3A4EO97Q0NkIMBekCN8rkrvvaRdHmObd08PoWJAt-_UklpqgbNXaGrbTLYGoOolQ_L56bBOh9EyhHKFOYK9CJ52gAmks5MpR068RMT1Z5yV70-CWxeWvxEpYquZ90NZHgwicxvc/s1600/Bonus+03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="1280" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTI7bt3A4EO97Q0NkIMBekCN8rkrvvaRdHmObd08PoWJAt-_UklpqgbNXaGrbTLYGoOolQ_L56bBOh9EyhHKFOYK9CJ52gAmks5MpR068RMT1Z5yV70-CWxeWvxEpYquZ90NZHgwicxvc/s400/Bonus+03.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I added a break-line and replaced the moulded plastic seat-springs with some wound copper wire, as well as various other details.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHCWFyRpIs52UrXvtDz_e4Mu0mzHGU34XijVwwd9yb0aV5rqHdBoUGMaEwGKpNQSvvQAAo3hT2QypBjhMfBU_Dicz5Nn8A6FW0Uw2vYYt0tRLJssbUftY7QRUnUzEyHid_hRxGUCmBpTI/s1600/Bonus+04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="786" data-original-width="1280" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHCWFyRpIs52UrXvtDz_e4Mu0mzHGU34XijVwwd9yb0aV5rqHdBoUGMaEwGKpNQSvvQAAo3hT2QypBjhMfBU_Dicz5Nn8A6FW0Uw2vYYt0tRLJssbUftY7QRUnUzEyHid_hRxGUCmBpTI/s400/Bonus+04.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here's the various bits painted. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiS2GEv_IAO13jGzjqukzYe1BqkZ1rMrDUSkKzwsAZ7CT1q4dgQPNNhKnfR8eRYcMo2-_Rf1FeBs4hLCp4SXN18IWz7ePqrhlpvbOZoHeizH2qXBjrYpQQOCzpBFIx9f3mwjhCjSKEAvY/s1600/Bonus+05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1187" data-original-width="1280" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiS2GEv_IAO13jGzjqukzYe1BqkZ1rMrDUSkKzwsAZ7CT1q4dgQPNNhKnfR8eRYcMo2-_Rf1FeBs4hLCp4SXN18IWz7ePqrhlpvbOZoHeizH2qXBjrYpQQOCzpBFIx9f3mwjhCjSKEAvY/s400/Bonus+05.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDCiCDqnX6e8fyYn49Ag-5o39uafx8wIwMqaPtbcPISLUPn1sxoPHJ90EFGeR3SXZ-51mckSTvfXjsJDbZ8JlRXJKwKU_awVgIV82y2ySF6gRFBpAC-vkvFjvm7pDVMkPgDbHG5_tgmqg/s1600/Bonus+06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="898" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDCiCDqnX6e8fyYn49Ag-5o39uafx8wIwMqaPtbcPISLUPn1sxoPHJ90EFGeR3SXZ-51mckSTvfXjsJDbZ8JlRXJKwKU_awVgIV82y2ySF6gRFBpAC-vkvFjvm7pDVMkPgDbHG5_tgmqg/s640/Bonus+06.jpg" width="448" /></a></div>
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Here are the final photos before attaching the roof and cupola. The model was airbrushed with Pledge floor polish before the weathering was applied.</div>
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All the interior accessories, as well as machine-gun ammo belts, ammo boxes, water condensing cans, tool boxes etc were glued into place.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX2KM64Y6M4icMaleXh0njuYYrZmNCDZzdoRTHq6-pNhF3qzgW_QA-BWljR3Qfr-yqoHE-eRRUBRSrqtf9fJmedYhwxvCBAfrx0ibpYKF_hSs9Yot-IvTAuhNoP4fAGhwZDiFZM9QAFq0/s1600/End+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="857" data-original-width="1280" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX2KM64Y6M4icMaleXh0njuYYrZmNCDZzdoRTHq6-pNhF3qzgW_QA-BWljR3Qfr-yqoHE-eRRUBRSrqtf9fJmedYhwxvCBAfrx0ibpYKF_hSs9Yot-IvTAuhNoP4fAGhwZDiFZM9QAFq0/s640/End+01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfqR_08Uu6P_2N_XYz_mtmArAXUwCZJ9EHNaw8q5Sn15dfdifPtwLtfRjxfslcpw7asvq76NIaI7aoBru86e3IbmSSWc0NrQT42yC01JvcLEBrqIQD_aQYUPTl7ltXI_gNrfXSP2Mwldc/s1600/End+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="740" data-original-width="1280" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfqR_08Uu6P_2N_XYz_mtmArAXUwCZJ9EHNaw8q5Sn15dfdifPtwLtfRjxfslcpw7asvq76NIaI7aoBru86e3IbmSSWc0NrQT42yC01JvcLEBrqIQD_aQYUPTl7ltXI_gNrfXSP2Mwldc/s640/End+02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDQYte7Z8Ui3WYxNORMkmyLrRoH4ZmSqSie_APrf3K6ZIe_acBBJ3NhjJfe15r_EYY3slw-VqxAI-jQVeELGOPDaK8cD5PIfD5XWj7eepwRj8evvv35mg0Vz83uIPBRV72J7GVuD1kqnU/s1600/End+03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1280" height="404" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDQYte7Z8Ui3WYxNORMkmyLrRoH4ZmSqSie_APrf3K6ZIe_acBBJ3NhjJfe15r_EYY3slw-VqxAI-jQVeELGOPDaK8cD5PIfD5XWj7eepwRj8evvv35mg0Vz83uIPBRV72J7GVuD1kqnU/s640/End+03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxyFOtOh3DSwF3xHlv7NlRKr5a6_GgIYBQQmrvyv9LmLukxqNDwdYHRvrQwOA1PGU20kezCJS8eL2SV3zCtUHp-MzCN5z8R5G-0mkSt7M9U73B2Ma6YeDzc-QpK6GFCjaQamDmMP-KKyY/s1600/End+04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="870" data-original-width="1280" height="434" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxyFOtOh3DSwF3xHlv7NlRKr5a6_GgIYBQQmrvyv9LmLukxqNDwdYHRvrQwOA1PGU20kezCJS8eL2SV3zCtUHp-MzCN5z8R5G-0mkSt7M9U73B2Ma6YeDzc-QpK6GFCjaQamDmMP-KKyY/s640/End+04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://flyinggorilla.blogspot.com/2018/06/sturmpanzer-a7v-563-wotan-part-1.html" target="_blank">Here's a link to part 1 of this series</a></div>
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Next up: the crew!</div>
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<br />Kosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-72033782588608654792019-03-28T21:00:00.004-07:002019-03-28T21:36:46.549-07:0028mm Soviet Support Weapons, 1980'sFour new weapons teams are coming soon from Eureka Miniatures.<br />
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These join the 1980's Soviet troops shown <a href="https://flyinggorilla.blogspot.com/2014/01/28mm-soviet-motorised-infantry.html" target="_blank">here</a> and <a href="https://flyinggorilla.blogspot.com/2014/04/painted-28mm-red-army-infantry-and-tank.html" target="_blank">here</a>, which are already available <a href="http://www.eurekamin.com.au/index.php?cPath=87_150_848" target="_blank">here</a> at the Eureka web store, or <a href="https://eurekaminusa.com/collections/russians-afghan-war-28mm" target="_blank">here</a> at Eureka Miniatures USA. They are designed for wargaming Soviet-Afghan War and 'what-if' Cold War scenarios.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVbniNUnJz0AblrkPCkW18nbdU0cUakRVCe4uhwyiUPYjd9Mv5K9k0cRD2pilQCsgY6cGkJNVaA9DN2zML_7MhjGPd9mNKofzVZmsMnNQgG0OLAl6ZFt7mzHDbkR7HfrI7qH8GasCp-vU/s1600/Group+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="724" data-original-width="1280" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVbniNUnJz0AblrkPCkW18nbdU0cUakRVCe4uhwyiUPYjd9Mv5K9k0cRD2pilQCsgY6cGkJNVaA9DN2zML_7MhjGPd9mNKofzVZmsMnNQgG0OLAl6ZFt7mzHDbkR7HfrI7qH8GasCp-vU/s640/Group+01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWmmZSV9Pe9pad2MlS-UM-lCX64rEiNYZhXfiYz1_Hbq5D6HumWOtQCVbkkuGWBmpT2Al9OASE9ZsingejZprgbftpAexR6lxWDB2cAy01g6I_nC6MBqe9sXeSXA7nsfH0c4NAVRn5vGA/s1600/Group+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1280" height="374" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWmmZSV9Pe9pad2MlS-UM-lCX64rEiNYZhXfiYz1_Hbq5D6HumWOtQCVbkkuGWBmpT2Al9OASE9ZsingejZprgbftpAexR6lxWDB2cAy01g6I_nC6MBqe9sXeSXA7nsfH0c4NAVRn5vGA/s640/Group+02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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As the sculptor and designer of these figures, I first needed to decide the overall look that I was going to go for with the uniforms. Soviet soldiers deployed to Afghanistan during the 1980's wore a wide range of uniforms, which also changed along the duration of the war. In the end, I decided to match the infantry sets that I'd already made, which is primarily a KLMK camouflage suit, over which is worn the 6B-2 flak jacket. Some figures' flak jackets are variants with integral pouches and pockets for AK magazines or grenades, others wear chest-rigs or webbing.</div>
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The Soviet engineers in the below photo are an excellent study of this combination.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqp78WnyClsgFtQ49hturp1PRnb8SL9kWUdgRcEwPswe2eD1TPpNgsz8HAImgibL_R8X1AatiZoAHEMcZbF4MibIwaywooPfgfhjiIhnijQe0SMvGRQo85nRSKS4HLGzEYvTOH3C5G6yg/s1600/KLMK+%252B+helmet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="868" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqp78WnyClsgFtQ49hturp1PRnb8SL9kWUdgRcEwPswe2eD1TPpNgsz8HAImgibL_R8X1AatiZoAHEMcZbF4MibIwaywooPfgfhjiIhnijQe0SMvGRQo85nRSKS4HLGzEYvTOH3C5G6yg/s640/KLMK+%252B+helmet.jpg" width="434" /></a></div>
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First is an <a href="https://weaponsystems.net/weaponsystem/BB05%20-%20SPG-9%20(73mm).html" target="_blank">SPG-9</a> Recoilless Rifle with three-man crew.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ2-msTb4JbuisaAAtQpVMgbQtwKePZ7vZx9TR1yQCRxydKgWS15ubcL_4OLLraXSjAMDQPEvGKxHQIRSgVh0bgE3H-bIpj0i9UhhftSg-cyJpZ9og_7F3B40xiEdshT-ZI6hBpewo-9U/s1600/SPG-9+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="791" data-original-width="1280" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ2-msTb4JbuisaAAtQpVMgbQtwKePZ7vZx9TR1yQCRxydKgWS15ubcL_4OLLraXSjAMDQPEvGKxHQIRSgVh0bgE3H-bIpj0i9UhhftSg-cyJpZ9og_7F3B40xiEdshT-ZI6hBpewo-9U/s400/SPG-9+02.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Next is a standard <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/82-BM-37" target="_blank">82mm Mortar</a> with two-man crew. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf4NYec6GwT6rk9kyeoN32nG1qL6IF_4K3xJu6QOcZnCv_j19l6ndopDfWBLMur7NSYip8VcnsfyxFTuQlFRAMZHKd8guFO5Xcb3V7iWKXvRyr4FaIKCT8xItyC0OumSeIUqkY-acCeMM/s1600/82mm+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="716" data-original-width="1280" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf4NYec6GwT6rk9kyeoN32nG1qL6IF_4K3xJu6QOcZnCv_j19l6ndopDfWBLMur7NSYip8VcnsfyxFTuQlFRAMZHKd8guFO5Xcb3V7iWKXvRyr4FaIKCT8xItyC0OumSeIUqkY-acCeMM/s400/82mm+02.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ28fPJbkTqft3ljwP1S_CgqXHf-YfzaAHb4yL1KdinxNqAB8Lzfmf6boEIMeniDzfYE7emZYk9YRcdpOOfjTi92yAzx97sTyn2FrwHAwoTXJ14b5LyXvwcbivwv2OsHP7mwRbTmEO6kA/s1600/82mm+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="992" data-original-width="1280" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ28fPJbkTqft3ljwP1S_CgqXHf-YfzaAHb4yL1KdinxNqAB8Lzfmf6boEIMeniDzfYE7emZYk9YRcdpOOfjTi92yAzx97sTyn2FrwHAwoTXJ14b5LyXvwcbivwv2OsHP7mwRbTmEO6kA/s400/82mm+01.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AGS-17" target="_blank">AGS-17</a> Automatic Grenade Launcher with two-man crew.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9znxOcaj2-YyffsHy67KAOWy1zv4lRCtmAQi_s1ipZuwFf3uo7PiLTrFfw15yknV9WA2POekDTJzt7isic1kpVE3XpdaVHtA9SlOKMERgCzXZejAP1KmjEeMRVV3-nIfP_O91B7sUR0k/s1600/Plamya+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1280" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9znxOcaj2-YyffsHy67KAOWy1zv4lRCtmAQi_s1ipZuwFf3uo7PiLTrFfw15yknV9WA2POekDTJzt7isic1kpVE3XpdaVHtA9SlOKMERgCzXZejAP1KmjEeMRVV3-nIfP_O91B7sUR0k/s400/Plamya+02.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUqQKWz6tMB8xmKL7giEjQky0UfKSU_uaswz9tIEa8YIEe_7qI7JhXhZMq5hyH4-Ez6BN4VDDGsJMWSOR7oLctgcw2r1eLgHIo0Rny8ZOKgnA8QxgirxjHwfKVBCKxDy97Yzy31QCc12M/s1600/Plamya+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="742" data-original-width="1280" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUqQKWz6tMB8xmKL7giEjQky0UfKSU_uaswz9tIEa8YIEe_7qI7JhXhZMq5hyH4-Ez6BN4VDDGsJMWSOR7oLctgcw2r1eLgHIo0Rny8ZOKgnA8QxgirxjHwfKVBCKxDy97Yzy31QCc12M/s400/Plamya+01.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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And lastly is the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NSV_machine_gun" target="_blank">NSV</a> Heavy Machine-Gun with two-man crew. While the above weapons are already available with the <a href="http://www.eurekamin.com.au/index.php?cPath=87_150_845" target="_blank">Afghan Guerilla</a> figure sets, this one is newly mastered. Extra NSV photos below.</div>
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Scroll down for the painting guide available <a href="https://flyinggorilla.blogspot.com/2014/04/painted-28mm-red-army-infantry-and-tank.html" target="_blank">here</a>.Kosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-80723006748029915052018-10-01T22:17:00.000-07:002019-07-08T23:27:57.443-07:00Modern British Army in 28mm<span style="text-align: justify;">First look at the upcoming modern British infantry figures from Eureka Miniatures. </span><br />
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I sculpted the figures themselves a while ago, and got some paint on five examples for these photos.<br />
I believe that the production moulds have been made, so they should appear in the <a href="http://www.eurekamin.com.au/" target="_blank">eureka miniatures</a> web store soon.</div>
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These figures represent British troops as they appeared between 2006 and 2010, during their deployment to Helmand province in Afghanistan as part of ISAF (International Security Assistance Force).</div>
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As such, the figures are depicted wearing Mk6A helmets and Osprey Mk2 plate-carriers, rather than the newer Mk7A helmet and Osprey Mk4 body armour.</div>
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Fabric areas are painted in desert <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disruptive_Pattern_Material" target="_blank">DPM</a> as opposed to the more current <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-Terrain_Pattern" target="_blank">MTP</a> camouflage scheme.</div>
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Here's a sneaky look at each set in the range. Apologies for not running a black wash over the figures.</div>
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Fireteam: 2 x L85A1 rifles, Para Minimi, L85A2 with <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heckler_%26_Koch_AG36" target="_blank">L123A2</a> Underslung Grenade Launcher</div>
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Advancing fireteam:<br />
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Patrolling fireteam:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwHoPlYvVN6GQJPXPgjkHPEiai6lAT9q6njN_B_MGg-Gvf519E4PcxWqjwoTopmeW6_DYn2InphTxIWPGtBSB9EzbEFtSOzSXfYwzeNRlERX7pZSnxZ23geMovyn8Aun4EglNQLHxeRng/s1600/Eureka+modern+Brit+07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="716" data-original-width="1280" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwHoPlYvVN6GQJPXPgjkHPEiai6lAT9q6njN_B_MGg-Gvf519E4PcxWqjwoTopmeW6_DYn2InphTxIWPGtBSB9EzbEFtSOzSXfYwzeNRlERX7pZSnxZ23geMovyn8Aun4EglNQLHxeRng/s400/Eureka+modern+Brit+07.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Sniper team:<br />
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Radioman, ECM specialist, 51mm mortar, Vallon man:<br />
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GPMG gunners:<br />
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I was very fortunate to have the assistance of author <a href="https://twitter.com/leighjneville?lang=en" target="_blank">Leigh Neville</a> when I was preparing this range.</div>
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Leigh's knowledge was a great help when I was ironing out some of the more stubborn details, and also helping me figure out when different bits of kit were being issued. </div>
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For anyone seeking a good primer on this subject I can recommend the Osprey book that Leigh authored, with illustrations by Peter Dennis.</div>
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Thanks Leigh!</div>
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<br />Kosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-31462940716516326632018-09-20T20:09:00.001-07:002019-07-08T23:27:34.614-07:00Ape Soldiers, Mechanised, Part 2<div style="text-align: justify;">
While the <a href="https://flyinggorilla.blogspot.com/2018/06/sturmpanzer-a7v-563-wotan-part-1.html" target="_blank">previous post</a> concerned a modelling project requiring tons of research and rivet-counting, this one ticks all the boxes of what scale modelling can also be about.</div>
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Part one is way back <a href="https://flyinggorilla.blogspot.com/2012/12/ape-soldiers-mechanised.html" target="_blank">here</a>, and below are the snaps, followed by some WIP shots and then a little info.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf5o_EnN9P4OfWiqIPefa8o0ek_StCjUJjAk4rrsZrRn-yHbr208fF6BXfyrvgXOBUwvjERb0OYFaQMEbIc5jVtdWxUCCrTGVW43usAhyphenhyphenKPMoV2d1zMGfa8_5mbqrvVBnhIjY-C-dlJCI/s1600/Ape+Hanomag+13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="370" data-original-width="640" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf5o_EnN9P4OfWiqIPefa8o0ek_StCjUJjAk4rrsZrRn-yHbr208fF6BXfyrvgXOBUwvjERb0OYFaQMEbIc5jVtdWxUCCrTGVW43usAhyphenhyphenKPMoV2d1zMGfa8_5mbqrvVBnhIjY-C-dlJCI/s640/Ape+Hanomag+13.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This is Tamiya's Sdkfz 251 halftrack, a kit from the early 1970's. These old kits are great for practicing new paints or painting techniques on, and with a little work can build into fine models. </div>
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Some basic interior details were added, along with a little refinement of the headlights and width-indicators. The rear machine-gun mount is pretty toy-like, so a new one was built from scratch.</div>
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The MG's on the halftrack and most of the weapons for the figures were taken from Tamiya's old German Infantry Weapons Set. The set dates back to 1979, perfectly useful for a project like this. </div>
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The figures are also vintage Tamiya, suitably converted.</div>
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These 1970's era figures are way too basic for serious modelling, and with so many excellent figures sets now available, they'd be piled up in my cupboard without purpose.</div>
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The dynamic poses are such fun, though, and so the idea of converting them to Planet of the Apes style gorilla soldiers was born. I spent a little extra time on the Gorilla General.</div>
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The colour is Desert Tan Base Surface Primer (73613) from Vallejo, over a rattle-can white base-coat. The ape glyphs were masked, then the red areas painted by hand. Chipping was applied with a dark grey acrylic, both with sponge and fine brush. I really overdid the chipping on the interior, but I'm pretty happy with the exterior chipping. Pin washes and streaks were done with oil paints. I had never used dry pigments before, so experimented with them around the lower hull and running gear. </div>
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That's what this project was all about - fun, experimentation, and putting old model kits to use!</div>
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I amped-up the colours on the ape uniforms, being inspired more by the <a href="http://planetoftheapes.wikia.com/wiki/Planet_of_the_Apes_Magazine" target="_blank">Curtis/Marvel</a> Planet of the Apes comics than by the original five films.</div>
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There is an excellent post <a href="https://ohdannyboy.blogspot.com/2006/08/more-newtons-planet-of-apes-part-i.html" target="_blank">here</a> about the Newton Comics Planet of the Apes reprints, which were sold in Australia during the 1970's. These somewhat inferior reprints of the Curtis comics, with bodgie printing and stories cut off half way through, and printed out of sequence, were the ones I grew up with as a kid.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQTjSvTPXuvbh4mevhWjtZw4vBIGXGzqAEwOee-UxuvQhyphenhyphenseeEuSMEhJ66BioVsXQz27pe38g8s3bOOrUI-BeC5ufej_l9Vs7cG741OQ4-ZoFqrghMLjCWkamm2QmJxKFCitCpv6nKo78/s1600/Ape+Hanomag+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="336" data-original-width="640" height="336" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQTjSvTPXuvbh4mevhWjtZw4vBIGXGzqAEwOee-UxuvQhyphenhyphenseeEuSMEhJ66BioVsXQz27pe38g8s3bOOrUI-BeC5ufej_l9Vs7cG741OQ4-ZoFqrghMLjCWkamm2QmJxKFCitCpv6nKo78/s640/Ape+Hanomag+11.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I entered the half-track (with figures) in the Sci-fi vehicles category, and the Gorilla General in the Sci-fi figures category at this years <a href="http://www.modelexpo.com.au/" target="_blank">Australian Model Expo</a> and was most pleased that they achieved a 'commended' award and second place respectively.<br />
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<iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/dPe_TRH2qds/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/dPe_TRH2qds?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
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<br />Kosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-73377087744642413692018-06-04T02:53:00.002-07:002018-06-14T06:08:10.264-07:00Sturmpanzerwagen A7V 563 'Wotan', Part 1<span style="text-align: justify;">In the Christopher Nolan film 'Inception', ideas or images implanted in dreams carry a weight that can't be ignored, shaping and influencing the future waking lives of characters.</span><br />
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<span style="text-align: justify;">It's no stretch to say that this was the sort of impact that the first model magazine that I ever bought, the May 1981 issue of Military Modelling, had on me. On top of the striking cover artwork by the late Richard Scollins, the issue had a build review of a model tank kit from a new manufacturer that seemed weirdly exotic and very different from all the World War 2 tank models that I'd been spending my pocket money and weekends on up until then. The fact that 'Mephisto', the sole surviving A7V, wound up here in Australia also amazed me.</span><br />
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I had a standing order for Military Modelling magazine for many years from then on, and still refer to my old back issues.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEqHu3qeqPz8NAbETc8EgPw8rjePof1xcsb7PL6oeScyPkZwpGxBO41DU8JufJUvk63hjr8m2jDv0UOLYqlXKqak5JoKNrFy5JSwphWTk1CykNj-f-0BJbLVMIo5udnKEZA00f-w6m_ls/s1600/DSC_2416.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="454" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEqHu3qeqPz8NAbETc8EgPw8rjePof1xcsb7PL6oeScyPkZwpGxBO41DU8JufJUvk63hjr8m2jDv0UOLYqlXKqak5JoKNrFy5JSwphWTk1CykNj-f-0BJbLVMIo5udnKEZA00f-w6m_ls/s320/DSC_2416.jpg" width="227" /></a></div>
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The kit was the Tauro A7V, in 1/35 scale, and in the early 1990s I got my hands on that kit, plus the Hundleby and Strasheim book, and eagerly sat down to build the model.</div>
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I soon found that the Tauro model left much to be desired.... It had indy track links way before its time, but they were made from some strange vinyl material. The kit had an interior, though it didn't match the one in the real tank. Most obviously to me, the mounts for the six MG08 machine-guns were grossly over-simplified. The partially assembled model went back in the box to lie dormant.</div>
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Then in late 2014 I decided to have another go at the project. Sculpting wargaming figures had expanded my ability to create and animate figures, and photos of A7V tanks with their crew standing or sitting around the vehicle rekindled the idea of updating and detailing the model, as well as sculpting the crew. </div>
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Tauro's A7V has structural inaccuracies that are difficult to fix. The sides of the armour plates are too steep, and so the roof area is too wide. The overall length of each bogie is too long, so to compensate Tauro have made the idler and sprocket wheels narrower in diameter than they should be. In short, I knew that I could super-detail the model, but amending all of the structural issues was going to be too much trouble.</div>
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Constant checking and re-checking of photos has been the norm during construction and detailing. Each of the main phases - the interior and weapons, the exterior and running gear, and the crew figures, has challenged and stretched my modelling skills.</div>
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I was well aware that soon after I started the project, the probability of a new A7V model being released was very high, especially as kits had started to appear on the centenary of the start of World War 1. The Meng A7V duly appeared, and I thought of it as a useful addition to my research material, as well as potential parts that could find their way into my model.</div>
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Below are the various 1/35 plastic A7V kits, past and present. The two Tauro kits from 1981 have different box art and decals, but the plastic is the same in each kit.</div>
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The Meng kits from 2015 are in the bottom row. The kit on the bottom right includes a resin engine (or more properly two engines).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJvwE4dQgPxSDr-R7ob9f9N-doE7uEgBNkkQUJgPCmvYuq3fJjRmqd_xasohE6GPvWvE6Wj3UuQTrKeUNd5Lbbt7C7tadCp3UCGmugH9zjRyN8O2PZOP4wxZ71l9hlxsOL2BrnA2cu-Tc/s1600/DSC_2420.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="428" data-original-width="640" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJvwE4dQgPxSDr-R7ob9f9N-doE7uEgBNkkQUJgPCmvYuq3fJjRmqd_xasohE6GPvWvE6Wj3UuQTrKeUNd5Lbbt7C7tadCp3UCGmugH9zjRyN8O2PZOP4wxZ71l9hlxsOL2BrnA2cu-Tc/s320/DSC_2420.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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'Mephisto' by Mark Whitmore includes excellent scale plans. This book is now difficult to find and it would be great if the Queensland Museum would print another edition. </div>
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Another must have is the Tankograd 'Sturmpanzer A7V' book. It's absolutely packed with useful photos and information about each specific A7V. The authors are Strasheim and Hundleby. The only downside is that the scale plans unfortunately contain errors. </div>
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Next is Hundleby and Strasheim's 'The German A7V Tank', the cornerstone of A7V scholarship!</div>
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Stephen Zaloga's 'German Panzers 1914-18' from Osprey Publishing and the landscape format 'German Tanks in World War 1' from Schiffer came in very handy too. Authors of this last book are Strasheim and Schneider.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8epbK49VqKY7U_gWGWH10Wmt-mlNTTdwhsh7TS97knSioQ0vF6ryZRIIxxwnUyinUu4gnK9GOLcUSoSrKAcJVVg1y-KYI4lUtcGAjo6Dt4FqSnUnUCsr_G3qNBbKHzd9GSjcCPHJU-54/s1600/DSC_2419.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="489" data-original-width="640" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8epbK49VqKY7U_gWGWH10Wmt-mlNTTdwhsh7TS97knSioQ0vF6ryZRIIxxwnUyinUu4gnK9GOLcUSoSrKAcJVVg1y-KYI4lUtcGAjo6Dt4FqSnUnUCsr_G3qNBbKHzd9GSjcCPHJU-54/s320/DSC_2419.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Tools and materials for this model. Styrene strip, rod, tube and sheet. Calipers, 15cm ruler, tweezers. Micro Punch and Die set and hammer, the internal bolt detail was made using these. The Masterclub resin bolts are amazing, most of he external detailing was done with these. I use a snap-off blade knife, though my preferred blades have a more acute point than the usual type. I get these replacement blades from the art store.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieBaX1CnYrFStMqWmN077NV6W4x6a-NcmxIufosjvikD7J9UnvcMWhRLFUudsYzOdNl4m_rk1qOiETwa2rX6tp91NNG-Rv_vIyMWZ6I8xv0ChM69whjaO8a-BnZq3OFmTbInu6tS2nZkU/s1600/DSC_2426.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="434" data-original-width="640" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieBaX1CnYrFStMqWmN077NV6W4x6a-NcmxIufosjvikD7J9UnvcMWhRLFUudsYzOdNl4m_rk1qOiETwa2rX6tp91NNG-Rv_vIyMWZ6I8xv0ChM69whjaO8a-BnZq3OFmTbInu6tS2nZkU/s400/DSC_2426.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Work began with the floor. The diamond shaped tread plate is a Scale Link product.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi83j5MPIucuYngIUXzgQml8O1aVKe8BbmiPDeLKH77sYlONc8gbbL_I1hGs9u3GcLONJPN_cHEEVe3LCZRvCwmyDKw_ODRIhEqRlrKJ3FivYD2BUe-Q0YhwHbz_ekrK3_DkI2bG3sYtus/s1600/DSC_0995.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="745" data-original-width="1280" height="369" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi83j5MPIucuYngIUXzgQml8O1aVKe8BbmiPDeLKH77sYlONc8gbbL_I1hGs9u3GcLONJPN_cHEEVe3LCZRvCwmyDKw_ODRIhEqRlrKJ3FivYD2BUe-Q0YhwHbz_ekrK3_DkI2bG3sYtus/s640/DSC_0995.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A very basic representation of the dual engine was installed under the driving compartment.</div>
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Interior detailing took on a life of it's own. I had often wondered why modellers put so much work into interiors that would end up almost invisible, but I found myself doing that very thing. I find it hugely satisfying to research and reproduce these details. The driver and commander's seats were also built from scratch. The main gun ammo bin was adapted from the kit part.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTvoV9N61PjgpZosv2XqsP7AV5W9ZV3JnYYMCVphGI1QOTlGDORRW8dcSS2AuOsB3yoRLJlbjMtXUe7sZH39iNgQVZZ6FiwlipWmQFgVac3N7PRrg_5fIRAAPacy9rcfv-OFbbHpDeZfA/s1600/DSC_1195.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="553" data-original-width="1280" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTvoV9N61PjgpZosv2XqsP7AV5W9ZV3JnYYMCVphGI1QOTlGDORRW8dcSS2AuOsB3yoRLJlbjMtXUe7sZH39iNgQVZZ6FiwlipWmQFgVac3N7PRrg_5fIRAAPacy9rcfv-OFbbHpDeZfA/s640/DSC_1195.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrafe47baIv8YOIRNinHWaqSN2LU5k0cviv2oDi4iBBhLNzvl9mzIufec1MsKuuCTLqCT0uLeeWa471gK5T-PlR509ZJgMyN_2rRnFP8J5f_7E-O9mJFBQx0A8W30v4c7wf9rowbcwcX8/s1600/DSC_1280.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="428" data-original-width="640" height="427" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrafe47baIv8YOIRNinHWaqSN2LU5k0cviv2oDi4iBBhLNzvl9mzIufec1MsKuuCTLqCT0uLeeWa471gK5T-PlR509ZJgMyN_2rRnFP8J5f_7E-O9mJFBQx0A8W30v4c7wf9rowbcwcX8/s640/DSC_1280.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLrSlZF_W0QNn8LfQHZdHI4GGvr4f7NB5TB7yIrrrfq70w_4uQBxe1vD1ft8A_5qtifqlsyWAoPHKRrWe9a-JXJd9TJoIKUNasuJ8PQFR5XI46NE54nSshHOIe_kPibumBQ3fqTCmJpGo/s1600/DSC_1651.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="428" data-original-width="640" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLrSlZF_W0QNn8LfQHZdHI4GGvr4f7NB5TB7yIrrrfq70w_4uQBxe1vD1ft8A_5qtifqlsyWAoPHKRrWe9a-JXJd9TJoIKUNasuJ8PQFR5XI46NE54nSshHOIe_kPibumBQ3fqTCmJpGo/s640/DSC_1651.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMfCS-p-kiMIlLAYEawGs0r_k4AHY0B7KDcPvzDyOntHX0nRuAQPbeeH7zVd3bF5eiyiO1dsg9vFzA7aRiqBg9gECtCN4RVWjfaewDB1Kr2lkwCJdhkJ159QDwrGu5ZGpmllxYCaTZdwI/s1600/DSC_1657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="413" data-original-width="640" height="412" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMfCS-p-kiMIlLAYEawGs0r_k4AHY0B7KDcPvzDyOntHX0nRuAQPbeeH7zVd3bF5eiyiO1dsg9vFzA7aRiqBg9gECtCN4RVWjfaewDB1Kr2lkwCJdhkJ159QDwrGu5ZGpmllxYCaTZdwI/s640/DSC_1657.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I built the 57mm gun with gunner's seat from scratch, though I ended up using the Aber barrel (designed for the Meng kit).</div>
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My radiator with the Meng radiator below. The mesh is from a broken coffee plunger. It's detailed with Meng plastic bolts.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUmiO2cZ0-Ke6e7dRrJ4wxRuCYYP9mGDWour_0krs06SlKJBnrQQYDNEZogtjOrSABs-VBpOmsRg_eh5uYP0lOdHcjstIzoRaxu7hUcpiospsnir-JcxzWNk3DMuAyH8fumB8BdLBu_IY/s1600/DSC_1203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="1058" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUmiO2cZ0-Ke6e7dRrJ4wxRuCYYP9mGDWour_0krs06SlKJBnrQQYDNEZogtjOrSABs-VBpOmsRg_eh5uYP0lOdHcjstIzoRaxu7hUcpiospsnir-JcxzWNk3DMuAyH8fumB8BdLBu_IY/s400/DSC_1203.jpg" width="330" /></a></div>
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Using a round burr in a Dremel tool, I reduced the armour thickness around the doors, small hatches and machine-gun openings. The MG openings are way too big, so laminated plastic sheet was used to get them down to the correct size.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS6QMPHo4-LyzUY7PjE6TCZxp2FogVtbtf_atlytnteqfnFULdAI01ZkQ_nRhzcYCG6LdefDLIi-DwaP6mY_VDPsut9L7hfY8LVltLx68p1jSsn6aUo-QJTMlWX1IV1oJPgijFHL6lBro/s1600/DSC_1118.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="857" data-original-width="1280" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS6QMPHo4-LyzUY7PjE6TCZxp2FogVtbtf_atlytnteqfnFULdAI01ZkQ_nRhzcYCG6LdefDLIi-DwaP6mY_VDPsut9L7hfY8LVltLx68p1jSsn6aUo-QJTMlWX1IV1oJPgijFHL6lBro/s640/DSC_1118.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I built some of the components of the MG08 swivel mounts from scratch and had them custom cast by Eureka Miniatures. These were further detailed with plastic bolts and disks. Sheet styrene and punched-out styrene bolts detail the MG openings. Above each position is a fire/cease fire indicator.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFoczCgeM6OJkAPr67U_qeactOM6aiOy3EjHe4kCictRz12Qt1hIIXheGqYBIoW8TLNmgHqGa1ndCQM3UssB64AizUuK7lxv6eim3N5GwJ7n2jyECjRWa1BQq64ACD9rprSbFcL2KYKdw/s1600/DSC_1479.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="468" data-original-width="640" height="468" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFoczCgeM6OJkAPr67U_qeactOM6aiOy3EjHe4kCictRz12Qt1hIIXheGqYBIoW8TLNmgHqGa1ndCQM3UssB64AizUuK7lxv6eim3N5GwJ7n2jyECjRWa1BQq64ACD9rprSbFcL2KYKdw/s640/DSC_1479.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJwJqGwyN_ORAlXa1Dt0RFpWuZJWFg3OTvanoXPl8j48MPUS-TxgrOSFbinJHY-9A4SnRLepkFLrLcsxeRM7dV4Y-c92KYaKibYNDcEq0D5lCM-b2j0w9tVPGySWmHIQtzr087tZ15cgE/s1600/DSC_1480.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="475" data-original-width="640" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJwJqGwyN_ORAlXa1Dt0RFpWuZJWFg3OTvanoXPl8j48MPUS-TxgrOSFbinJHY-9A4SnRLepkFLrLcsxeRM7dV4Y-c92KYaKibYNDcEq0D5lCM-b2j0w9tVPGySWmHIQtzr087tZ15cgE/s640/DSC_1480.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfU_zsz1R_Qv0K8lJFCHzXsafD_YEsYPWVirIiI_ZyaQ3OXEfq79AFSjigSyzRYj-gYUTShQxcF9npDo7KE5WqTivcd6ucZsmheR-O6Tg4pYKl18ql8R-dkNYesSfKUPy5Q56WT2-byG0/s1600/DSC_1477.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="486" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfU_zsz1R_Qv0K8lJFCHzXsafD_YEsYPWVirIiI_ZyaQ3OXEfq79AFSjigSyzRYj-gYUTShQxcF9npDo7KE5WqTivcd6ucZsmheR-O6Tg4pYKl18ql8R-dkNYesSfKUPy5Q56WT2-byG0/s640/DSC_1477.jpg" width="486" /></a></div>
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Tamiya Kar 98 rifles with slings added from thick foil (from the top of a Milo tin) or Tamiya tape.</div>
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I used modified Besa MG flash hiders from RB Models to enhance the machine-guns. I detailed these well before the Meng kit and therefore any aftermarket parts for the A7V had been released. </div>
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Each gun also has an asymmetrical armoured cover over the front of its water jacket, which I fashioned from my usual sculpting mix - standard yellow-grey Milliput mixed with Green Stuff.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMw7S6mbgAsfzJCXEgajFmCdlyWxuFc-Lhh5JhqwQbIN4NHblQplCVcoepU4aHCz9bAqGuGh85SE4LKvLAHhkwDnXfXV-LQ2zuVBlpCPHtTcx7ZCT8Y_5acPPfE7yp_d7OzDGpS0oO4Yo/s1600/DSC_1707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="379" data-original-width="640" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMw7S6mbgAsfzJCXEgajFmCdlyWxuFc-Lhh5JhqwQbIN4NHblQplCVcoepU4aHCz9bAqGuGh85SE4LKvLAHhkwDnXfXV-LQ2zuVBlpCPHtTcx7ZCT8Y_5acPPfE7yp_d7OzDGpS0oO4Yo/s400/DSC_1707.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Since the late war WW1 ammo boxes used for the 7.92 MG 08 machine-guns are identical to the WW2 German ammo boxes, I was able to use these Griffon PE pieces. I don't have heaps of experience with PE, but used a PE bending tool for the fiddly job of folding them up. The water condensation cans are heavily altered pieces from Tamiya. They started out as MG 34 ammo boxes. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9rwR2Vn5haBGsvjV3dggHU4TPsrFVAIvJf6hYPKBA4piwfaGT9u7O0KFmgE7T4FyPEMUyJV4teWy6GzqEd8rccdkqzCKKn1ovOU6wdvQF0XDBv1d3J0QfKULEFdQQarTXJQqppIItitg/s1600/DSC_2298.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="385" data-original-width="640" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9rwR2Vn5haBGsvjV3dggHU4TPsrFVAIvJf6hYPKBA4piwfaGT9u7O0KFmgE7T4FyPEMUyJV4teWy6GzqEd8rccdkqzCKKn1ovOU6wdvQF0XDBv1d3J0QfKULEFdQQarTXJQqppIItitg/s400/DSC_2298.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCu8PzamE2rhqa1aOmcmgm_cGSrIFUNmMBFIV2G6KjyPrrEgbCwlMJFBSepPQrj2BCkinQK9yT3I6ek0ECStiuKc0D9y8UY1-c6tncC8-X8k9VzsCWPFNwoqa3yUh8MUBIZ9w545erM2M/s1600/DSC_2295.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="397" data-original-width="640" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCu8PzamE2rhqa1aOmcmgm_cGSrIFUNmMBFIV2G6KjyPrrEgbCwlMJFBSepPQrj2BCkinQK9yT3I6ek0ECStiuKc0D9y8UY1-c6tncC8-X8k9VzsCWPFNwoqa3yUh8MUBIZ9w545erM2M/s400/DSC_2295.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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There are four tall and two short machine-gunner's seats. I ended up pinching most of them from Meng's kit, but left one of each unbuilt in the Meng box, in case I needed patterns to model more from; so in the end I only had to build two seats from scratch. </div>
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I reasoned that instead of comfy pillows perhaps folded army blankets may have been used to make the seats more comfortable, so I made these out of my sculpting mix.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq-PVBadPga5N33wmBeRaxDUyEmyadx3FyZJvJJJWpIuos28kPky6JnCqUXvGRwv-NSJ6qKcOqm6VzOZ03U8NdoE-GKlHlZawiaFUa3Jsmv48vO9ykgvUf3NLvW1KjgmFfNauqANEqqGM/s1600/DSC_1696.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="354" data-original-width="640" height="353" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq-PVBadPga5N33wmBeRaxDUyEmyadx3FyZJvJJJWpIuos28kPky6JnCqUXvGRwv-NSJ6qKcOqm6VzOZ03U8NdoE-GKlHlZawiaFUa3Jsmv48vO9ykgvUf3NLvW1KjgmFfNauqANEqqGM/s640/DSC_1696.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here all the seats have been painted and lightly weathered.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbSYt6g4sB2joe_m5vKIYIYocxslSmnD20D1THUbjESTXO6SVlaOojZKC-g_jHHQwb2LHXk_FKNBy6bU8GcXKbSEFT2ktsi0xzY0s59Y2eBoVAIXPFuqU7LqMAUP1LqGpEepDJTBiHCFs/s1600/DSC_1942.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="357" data-original-width="640" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbSYt6g4sB2joe_m5vKIYIYocxslSmnD20D1THUbjESTXO6SVlaOojZKC-g_jHHQwb2LHXk_FKNBy6bU8GcXKbSEFT2ktsi0xzY0s59Y2eBoVAIXPFuqU7LqMAUP1LqGpEepDJTBiHCFs/s640/DSC_1942.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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With construction and detailing of the major interior components and machine-gun fixtures done, painting could commence, leading up to attaching the four armoured sides to the chassis/floor.</div>
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The tank has just been glued together. The interior faces of the armour plates were each painted and weathered before being brought together. Bare plastic in each corner (here visible in the rear right corner) would be covered with bolted framework.</div>
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Exterior detailing will be covered in a future post, but here can be seen the interior of the A7V cupola. This is all built from scratch, with stacks of punched-out bolts for detail.</div>
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The compass in the roof was built from some plastic scrap and was based on the one in the Meng model. I went a little nuts and added the cardinal points using the tiny labels from decal sheets. The letters are still probably oversize but I don't think the compass will be visible once the model is assembled.</div>
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The model will depict vehicle 563 'Wotan' during summer exercises in 1918. The tank had seen limited combat, so while I wanted the weathering to be visible I didn't want the interior to be filled with dirt and grime. Great War tanks were notoriously noxious places to work, so it's very possible that even a relatively new vehicle could be quite dirty, but this is where I've settled. I may add a toolbox and maybe a broom, but we'll see.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFHb1AJZf7VMwiCI3nYYjK3NT5Eov_RcmKHgr3kA6vvvEJI-DzloS3t8GQZKDmeSgc_I67Puw37hnxiiKtq7YZkIBIopnuSaJ1kVSJx9GdzLTl0et-ok5jVW-oo_eUAzeRInty4nenI34/s1600/A7V+wotan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="398" data-original-width="640" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFHb1AJZf7VMwiCI3nYYjK3NT5Eov_RcmKHgr3kA6vvvEJI-DzloS3t8GQZKDmeSgc_I67Puw37hnxiiKtq7YZkIBIopnuSaJ1kVSJx9GdzLTl0et-ok5jVW-oo_eUAzeRInty4nenI34/s320/A7V+wotan.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Kosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-22179016979213054772018-04-04T02:04:00.000-07:002018-04-04T02:05:04.997-07:00Modern Afghan Bikes.<div style="text-align: justify;">
New additions to Eureka Miniatures' 28mm <a href="http://www.eurekamin.com.au/index.php?cPath=87_126_150_845" target="_blank">Afghan Guerilla</a> and <a href="http://www.eurekamin.com.au/index.php?cPath=87_126_138&sort=3a" target="_blank">Middle-Eastern civilian</a> ranges are on their way.</div>
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Here are some shots of the militants that I recently sculpted (and just painted!) atop the 1980's style dirt-bike that I also mastered. As well as the armed guerillas, there is also a lookout (or 'dicker' in military slang) talking into a phone.</div>
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Alan Marsh sculpted the wonderful Afghan families, each balanced on a single bike, and also sculpted the Muslim civilian figures that I painted for <a href="http://flyinggorilla.blogspot.com.au/2016/04/painting-tutorial-smelly-and-old.html" target="_blank">this post.</a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl0yH04GbuCHztFKWEYz4ohCP4uDF0JviMYSEOSOI_M-woqrE5rwM2-mhpTJPNksBoLeei0T7u3WawsXE9GZh2RJUPLkgKgethPKKziIREUkqReAXDL3AYEKzfrzI4oKEPXxwCKa-XL9c/s1600/28mm+Afghan+bike+06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="612" data-original-width="1280" height="305" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl0yH04GbuCHztFKWEYz4ohCP4uDF0JviMYSEOSOI_M-woqrE5rwM2-mhpTJPNksBoLeei0T7u3WawsXE9GZh2RJUPLkgKgethPKKziIREUkqReAXDL3AYEKzfrzI4oKEPXxwCKa-XL9c/s640/28mm+Afghan+bike+06.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7idwwC-holDO_PG-OWs74ReUfpTRKp3H2kTuF1_2ctJu-N73PKWMuKD_vxYTd3MumqBdNHATGJXlWP-qrVe2o9_3u7EoUnpXqg5_V4z1y45VyiSmuB8z_Y44PssR9E4Rs_-15InoVKZg/s1600/28mm+Afghan+bike+07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="618" data-original-width="1280" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7idwwC-holDO_PG-OWs74ReUfpTRKp3H2kTuF1_2ctJu-N73PKWMuKD_vxYTd3MumqBdNHATGJXlWP-qrVe2o9_3u7EoUnpXqg5_V4z1y45VyiSmuB8z_Y44PssR9E4Rs_-15InoVKZg/s640/28mm+Afghan+bike+07.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS5ifNYvO9UqIK8Au_xKwEV6i8SDusjP0ltxBY7No3xdC5NIXLmdd1GCesXDsXExt0mlHBeiGLW24lg-7zxKc6NBst7omfECBEekNFBY53oNHqXZX9C9BCX3oEZiGywgvxqwe6uEYUFeM/s1600/28mm+Afghan+bike+05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="605" data-original-width="1280" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS5ifNYvO9UqIK8Au_xKwEV6i8SDusjP0ltxBY7No3xdC5NIXLmdd1GCesXDsXExt0mlHBeiGLW24lg-7zxKc6NBst7omfECBEekNFBY53oNHqXZX9C9BCX3oEZiGywgvxqwe6uEYUFeM/s640/28mm+Afghan+bike+05.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXS-MPQchAX0gqPCx-1tVpA1NUBAX1zC7lmlADpvcDOzjoq7w5w9_3svmZsAmbf7joddq7Wqo9n3VUNvVAO0xPz34hDQCCudklM6EVnZieOwtG9tDqrpriaOlz817p6LMrYDqEm3LWpkM/s1600/28mm+Afghan+bike+04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="644" data-original-width="1280" height="321" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXS-MPQchAX0gqPCx-1tVpA1NUBAX1zC7lmlADpvcDOzjoq7w5w9_3svmZsAmbf7joddq7Wqo9n3VUNvVAO0xPz34hDQCCudklM6EVnZieOwtG9tDqrpriaOlz817p6LMrYDqEm3LWpkM/s640/28mm+Afghan+bike+04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCm4oSUQw3_8b1vyD56P4AZtByQNNro3H9lZI7Er1TSrrcAl7DN90g87anQ1wDc0aEncNLq1_q4ZGYdkoAKzZy3ANR-zWnlMGS0BqH5lttHRNZnisUvUHRUKurInF8oALpGG_lpgMCcmg/s1600/28mm+Afghan+bike+08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="680" data-original-width="1280" height="339" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCm4oSUQw3_8b1vyD56P4AZtByQNNro3H9lZI7Er1TSrrcAl7DN90g87anQ1wDc0aEncNLq1_q4ZGYdkoAKzZy3ANR-zWnlMGS0BqH5lttHRNZnisUvUHRUKurInF8oALpGG_lpgMCcmg/s640/28mm+Afghan+bike+08.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqkpUFlpRtOtWe4uG4ylyyUW4NfNkttXnHdG3Dw0ywR99FLLZFJrJSgape6_2jMroto2QOFiKzKfrurpqbmVE3fnXcQs_ZdViWnSOc5qpH0Zi1QGcNBNAfDk5sQO2JS34SLx9QdprLEwA/s1600/28mm+Afghan+bike+03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="655" data-original-width="1280" height="324" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqkpUFlpRtOtWe4uG4ylyyUW4NfNkttXnHdG3Dw0ywR99FLLZFJrJSgape6_2jMroto2QOFiKzKfrurpqbmVE3fnXcQs_ZdViWnSOc5qpH0Zi1QGcNBNAfDk5sQO2JS34SLx9QdprLEwA/s640/28mm+Afghan+bike+03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The 28mm Afghan range is pretty complete now. There is also a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DShK" target="_blank">Dshka</a> on a ground-mount, as well as one or two other figures that I didn't get around to painting, but should be in the Eureka web-store soon.</div>
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Bye for now!<br />
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<br />Kosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-25002134334215991992018-01-11T03:46:00.000-08:002018-01-11T14:55:34.483-08:0028mm Papuan Infantry, now with paint (and a Bren gun)<div style="text-align: justify;">
In my previous post I shared photos of the Papuan Battalion infantry figures that I'd just sculpted.</div>
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Here are some of those miniatures painted up, plus a painted Bren team that I made to round out the set. I adapted my usual skin-painting technique (detailed <a href="http://flyinggorilla.blogspot.com.au/2016/04/painting-tutorial-smelly-and-old.html" target="_blank">here</a> ) for these figures, which will be on display at the Eureka Miniatures stand at <a href="http://www.cgs.asn.au/cancon/" target="_blank">Cancon</a> later this month.</div>
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I thoroughly enjoyed researching and sculpting these, and I'm really pleased with the final result.</div>
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Finally, Happy New Year to everyone reading and following the blog, and all the best for 2018.</div>
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KostaKosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-66608424104602567882017-10-08T05:49:00.000-07:002017-10-08T05:57:22.678-07:0028mm Papuan Infantry Battalion troops<div style="text-align: justify;">
In addition to sculpting the Australian troops featured in my last post, it was always my intention to sculpt some Papua New Guinean soldiers for Eureka Miniatures' 28mm World War Two range.</div>
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I had come across a short but excellent article in <a href="https://www.awm.gov.au/wartime/76" target="_blank">Wartime magazine</a> and also found a few useful photos in books and magazines that I had on my shelves. A few quick image searches online and I had plenty of info and perhaps more importantly, inspiration to make a set of figures a reality.</div>
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During World War Two Papua New Guineans became famous for the invaluable role they played supporting Australian troops in the fight against Japanese forces. No fighting force can function without supplies, so the muscle power that Papuans used as bearers, to transport supplies through, up and over the brutal terrain of New Guinea was all-important.</div>
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It is, however, as stretcher bearers who assisted and transported wounded Australians that these men are better remembered. They were affectionately known as the 'Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels' by Australian soldiers who they carried from the battlefield back to first aid posts and transported to field hospitals.</div>
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Less well-known are the troops of the Papuan Infantry Battalions, six battalions of which had been raised and trained by war's end. They scouted Japanese positions and set up ambushes, but also guarded rear-areas and landing strips. </div>
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Find below images of ten figures I have constructed using a set of dollies that I'd made. For the uninitiated, dollies are a sort of blank or basic figure figure that is used to create a number of poses, so that the sculptor is not starting from scratch for every figure. </div>
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Also below are some photos from 'Khaki and Green' which was an Australian government publication from the period, plus another neat photo of some Papuan men wearing helmets. Note the photo of the Papuans receiving instruction in the use of a Bren gun; the men are wearing Australian Army style identity disks, something I'd not seen in other photos of Papuan infantry. The figures I've sculpted do not have identity disks, but I will add a Bren team to the set before release. The white metal areas of the figures have not photographed so well, but hopefully you'll get a good idea of what the finished figures will look like. No release date on these yet!</div>
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Kosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-322946375363302842017-04-12T06:35:00.000-07:002017-10-08T05:50:36.072-07:00Eureka Miniatures 28mm WW2 Australian Infantry<div style="text-align: justify;">
I recently sculpted these World War Two Aussies, pics of some of the greens have appeared on the Eureka Miniature <a href="https://www.facebook.com/eurekamin/" target="_blank">FB page.</a></div>
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These photos are of a selection of the figures that I've painted for Nic Robson to display on Eureka's stand at this year's Salute in the UK.</div>
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Like a lot of people of a certain age, I grew up playing with classic Airfix toy soldiers, and one of the best sets in terms of sculpting and animation was the <a href="http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/Review.aspx?id=48" target="_blank">World War Two Australians.</a></div>
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It seemed natural then, that when tasked with sculpting some WW2 Aussies for Eureka, that influence would be easy to see, though I've restricted the homage (or shameless pose-stealing) to only a few figures. Helmet-wearing variants are also on the way.</div>
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These miniatures represent Australian troops in Papua New Guinea, with a series of very well-known photographs by George Silk of the fighting at Buna being one of my main references, though a number of photos of Australian Independent Company Commandos proved very useful.</div>
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The soldiers in these photographs were much better supplied and so presented a far more uniform appearance than the Milita troops who fought the Japanese in the Kokoda battles.</div>
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Kosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-85344165980006384052016-07-26T05:48:00.000-07:002017-10-08T05:50:48.152-07:00Red Army World War 2 Support Weapons<div style="text-align: justify;">
Following on from the rifle and sub machine-gun squads, here are some images of the new 28mm WW2 Soviet support weapons and teams that I recently finished sculpting for Eureka Miniatures. </div>
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First up is the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PTRD" target="_blank">PTRD 1941</a> anti-tank rifle with two-man crew. With a calibre of 14.5mm, the PTRD was a single shot bolt action weapon which was very widely distributed in the Red Army. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1v1L171lq3zxDVHmSTwYMZMRc8nGw2JY9XBPUM-8ePR_ZxFvYheYLv-ym8SmeuB8bHZXbeI7epr5nZMLFGbzra3HoTCYYQ3WQTRlgpVSOByoHGH_CHVMlfX9PnMVXP0e2PMH_SO24TZg/s1600/Eureka+Min.+PTRD+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1v1L171lq3zxDVHmSTwYMZMRc8nGw2JY9XBPUM-8ePR_ZxFvYheYLv-ym8SmeuB8bHZXbeI7epr5nZMLFGbzra3HoTCYYQ3WQTRlgpVSOByoHGH_CHVMlfX9PnMVXP0e2PMH_SO24TZg/s400/Eureka+Min.+PTRD+01.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Next is the classic <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PM_M1910" target="_blank">Maxim PM 1910</a> machine-gun also with two-man crew. Carried along on it's Sokolov wheeled mount and easily recognisable with it's fluted water jacket.</div>
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And finally there is the M1940 50mm mortar. This was one of a few different light mortar designs issued to infantry units of the Red Army. </div>
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...and here are all three teams together, plus a couple of the arcane reference books that came in handy while researching this project. I mean, what library would be complete without a copy of Know Your Antitank Rifles?</div>
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I'm on a bit of a roll with this whole WW2 Russian thing so you folks can expect this range to expand. I also have more post-2000 figures in the works too, and maybe even some scale modelling posts coming up.</div>
Kosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-12266677347256467162016-05-09T00:24:00.000-07:002017-10-08T05:50:48.145-07:00Red Army World War 2 in 28mm - Eureka Miniatures<div style="text-align: justify;">
When Nic Robson asked if I was interested in sculpting a range of World War 2 Soviet troops to coincide with the Stalingrad mega-game that Mike Parker of <a href="https://battlefield-accessories.myshopify.com/collections/28mm-buildings" target="_blank">Battlefield Accessories</a> was putting on at Cancon, I jumped at the chance.</div>
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The sculpting and production of these four sets was unfortunately delayed (partly because I had to fight off a nasty man-flu at the end of last year) and in the end only a few squads of these miniatures made it onto the table at Cancon. </div>
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The game was a total blast and I was asked to step in as over-all Russian commander at the last minute. Despite my complete ignorance of the Chain of Command rule system I managed to organise the assets and players on the Soviet side and pretend that I knew what I was doing.</div>
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<a href="http://ysambartcourtin.blogspot.com.au/2016/01/cancon-2016-after-action-report-i-saw.html" target="_blank">Here's</a> an excellent AAR, and below a flyover of the crazy tables that the Battlefield Accessories guys put together. The buildings themselves are fantastic and the impact of the whole setup was impressive to say the least!</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/JJW9vW9bHG8/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/JJW9vW9bHG8?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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The below photos show a set each of the sub machine-gun squad (8 men) and the rifle squad (11 men). Both sets are available wearing either steel helmet or the pilotka sidecap. These are the display figures that I painted for the Eureka stand at Salute. All four sets are slated for release on the <a href="http://eurekamin.com.au/" target="_blank">Eureka Miniatures</a> website soon.</div>
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Mortars, Maxims and anti-tank rifles are in the works too.<br />
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<br />Kosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-69254907604981315872016-04-14T18:52:00.000-07:002016-04-14T18:53:30.403-07:0028mm USMC EOD, .50 cal and Scout Sniper teams.<div style="text-align: justify;">
I finished sculpting these sets and they should be available on the <a href="http://www.eurekamin.com.au/" target="_blank">Eureka Miniatures</a> and <a href="http://eurekaminusa.com/" target="_blank">Eureka USA</a> webstores in the near future.</div>
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Readers in the UK who are attending Salute can pick up some pre-production sets this weekend, where the below painted examples will be displayed.</div>
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A couple of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Milkor_MGL" target="_blank">M32</a> grenadiers have also been added to the range. Masters of the M32 grenadiers and the .50 cal HMG team are included in the below photos. </div>
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K-9 team, EOD droid and technician, technician in blast suit.</div>
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Sniper team between the M240 and SMAW teams already in the Eureka catalogue</div>
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<br />Kosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-54227695317251403812016-04-13T05:16:00.000-07:002018-01-11T14:54:44.877-08:00Painting tutorial - Smelly and Old-Fashioned<div style="text-align: justify;">
A while ago I was asked if I would detail my technique for painting skin areas on miniatures and so below I present photos and captions that will illuminate my deepest painting secrets.</div>
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The examples are mostly Eureka Miniatures <a href="http://eurekamin.com.au/news.php?newsid=EuuAkkZpVpzlAbaNod" target="_blank">Iraqi civilians</a> in 28mm. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxE0j34PCaxA8QU1hJitTq0iUnkORpatS6ldcn7uLXenHmRMOdKVGAj_v5m6YFr9xUE13ISjHRgpSJwda9pfpT5TOots-4Mdov3MuneoIyzL69XEHtjCuIeGBFaklTEPp-WJNlgskJHEs/s1600/28mm+Iraqi+civilians.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxE0j34PCaxA8QU1hJitTq0iUnkORpatS6ldcn7uLXenHmRMOdKVGAj_v5m6YFr9xUE13ISjHRgpSJwda9pfpT5TOots-4Mdov3MuneoIyzL69XEHtjCuIeGBFaklTEPp-WJNlgskJHEs/s640/28mm+Iraqi+civilians.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Before we begin it's worth mentioning that this technique is something that has slowly evolved and that I find produces the easiest and most pleasing results for me personally. If you're not averse to using enamels then by all means give it a try.</div>
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Humbrol enamel paints, being 34 Matt White, 60 Matt Scarlet, 61 Matt Flesh, and 62 Matt Leather. Burnt Umber artist's oil paint. Dulux Quick Dry metal primer. You will also need some thinners (turpentine) both for thinning paint and washing brushes.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwqk_HtSdJuQ6nNAjl5pHTTYnOAGBmUkRKzgPCs_sNR9zqqWb5icnXXwEt43ctlx4HdnKjVgH4mk3VMD_SFuhDf3dhyd3kl1n8eF6rj4EcdO3hjCAd_nAkIhjPk-QbfGKXjVh6n6Wuv18/s1600/sbs04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwqk_HtSdJuQ6nNAjl5pHTTYnOAGBmUkRKzgPCs_sNR9zqqWb5icnXXwEt43ctlx4HdnKjVgH4mk3VMD_SFuhDf3dhyd3kl1n8eF6rj4EcdO3hjCAd_nAkIhjPk-QbfGKXjVh6n6Wuv18/s400/sbs04.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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After undercoating, apply the base colour for the flesh areas. I'll call the three basic skin tones "light", "medium" and "dark". Base colours from L to R : Light skinned female 34 White + 61 Flesh. Light skinned male 61 Flesh. Medium skinned male 61 Flesh + 62 Leather. Dark skinned male, 62 Leather.</div>
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I usually apply two thin coats. The second coat must be fully cured before the next step. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHgLl313aLKGH4YU9_Yk8n8QpnAocj4qSw8vxlr4ipMcrax3T9aXg3Kjbk5cqs17Soa6ditNm1274Lm-TPfemovfj0oYNk6nMOeUi4k3geexV08NAZxY1Qdcpmj7jnXrRy4KTXljKgw8w/s1600/sbs05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHgLl313aLKGH4YU9_Yk8n8QpnAocj4qSw8vxlr4ipMcrax3T9aXg3Kjbk5cqs17Soa6ditNm1274Lm-TPfemovfj0oYNk6nMOeUi4k3geexV08NAZxY1Qdcpmj7jnXrRy4KTXljKgw8w/s400/sbs05.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Squeeze a small amount of the Burnt Umber oil paint onto a piece of cardboard, and let it sit for 5 -10 minutes. This will drain some of the oil out, allowing the paint to dry more quickly and with more of a matt finish. For shading a light skinned figure, mix the Burnt Umber with some 62 Leather and thin with turpentine. Using the thinned mixture, block in the areas where the shadows will be. You don't need to be too neat.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0vvt7avduaFKCKGPuaNy6y95MAx03F8qz-kMzwGOGyhbXwmYjWvYGCc1Xe2K0A_is0yYTCx8_8VSCgoR3o_qOkqwc4xvU4jzAlHaQorlNu0UKF2CyWjRq9E3vuJy7JdARxU0ThGZ_k7w/s1600/sbs07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="377" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0vvt7avduaFKCKGPuaNy6y95MAx03F8qz-kMzwGOGyhbXwmYjWvYGCc1Xe2K0A_is0yYTCx8_8VSCgoR3o_qOkqwc4xvU4jzAlHaQorlNu0UKF2CyWjRq9E3vuJy7JdARxU0ThGZ_k7w/s400/sbs07.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Now this is the fun bit. Moisten a clean, fine brush with a small amount of turpentine. Dab most of the turpentine off. Using the tip of the bush, feather and soften the shadow tone, fading it into the base tone. You only need a small amount of turps on the brush, and wash the brush in turps after feathering every small area. In the above photo you'll see the result of this feathering. If you remove too much of the shadow tone you can apply a little more and until you're happy with the amount of contrast.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjroRT9LbJl1Uv04vSCoZnwTH0P6n9tiPeAqvX9jkTrB2oP1uYTglnXrMMEfGvDj_zmskzOysvjXx_lToE9ZjoLc_TsDiHkboihuOHNTWx4viys5HvlQFc294MEIV2degGczTdi_id7VUg/s1600/sbs06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjroRT9LbJl1Uv04vSCoZnwTH0P6n9tiPeAqvX9jkTrB2oP1uYTglnXrMMEfGvDj_zmskzOysvjXx_lToE9ZjoLc_TsDiHkboihuOHNTWx4viys5HvlQFc294MEIV2degGczTdi_id7VUg/s320/sbs06.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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So just to repeat what the technique is, the above photo shows the shadow areas blocked in with the mixture (burnt umber oil paint + Humbrol 62 leather)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGq_p0aCmq-sqtQ1Gv6fSpc2OhqfDoDlH9hR_YP8DJ7Sz-2Kgf6I9o_PXberuYJokf1qKFj-i1bF11m4lqDV5K0jdfu8rGr-g7YwmgQMi43b9PWza4R23C7_qX51U_vtnVKhB6xG6qBeY/s1600/sbs08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGq_p0aCmq-sqtQ1Gv6fSpc2OhqfDoDlH9hR_YP8DJ7Sz-2Kgf6I9o_PXberuYJokf1qKFj-i1bF11m4lqDV5K0jdfu8rGr-g7YwmgQMi43b9PWza4R23C7_qX51U_vtnVKhB6xG6qBeY/s320/sbs08.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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... and here the shadow colour has been feathered into the base colour.</div>
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The same approach is used on darker skin tones, only the shadow tone is pretty much just thinned burnt umber oil paint. Block in the shadow areas</div>
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... then feather the edges to get rid of the hard demarcation.<br />
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After the skin areas are done my next step is to line in all the overlapping bits of clothing and also put a black line between cloth and skin areas, being careful not to get any black on the skin bits. I use a black acrylic for this. Obviously if you use a black undercoat you won't need this step, but I generally use a grey undercoat because it causes fewer hassles when using bright colours later on.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Ppo__uyvXjuCuOOu1FZRDtonozr-w9KsP5hXDjyPPSmEJgF_z1Pp2Etg2nA7zgHThTpSyzWfv8yXs2QW_kV1LhhYQYL8jIvoJd6PcDP_S9YnaglFhzK098j60meyuA-2Eu1peP-_gv0/s1600/sbs16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="316" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Ppo__uyvXjuCuOOu1FZRDtonozr-w9KsP5hXDjyPPSmEJgF_z1Pp2Etg2nA7zgHThTpSyzWfv8yXs2QW_kV1LhhYQYL8jIvoJd6PcDP_S9YnaglFhzK098j60meyuA-2Eu1peP-_gv0/s320/sbs16.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I forgot to add that there are some small touches needed to complete the face and hands. A little pink (61 Flesh + a tiny bit of 60 Scarlett) applied to the lower lip and cheeks. Miniatures of both males and females will benefit from this, though it really is crucial for female miniatures. Feather the edges of the pink on the cheeks to get a soft effect.</div>
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Some thin Burnt Umber lines between the fingers are added too. </div>
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And there you have it! Now the clothing areas can be blocked in, then shading started. I use acrylics for the clothing and equipment, with different tones being built up in a number of glazes.</div>
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I hope this tutorial will be useful to anyone thinking of moving back in time to use oils and enamels. The longer drying time makes these paints pretty forgiving and speaking personally more fun for some jobs. Remember to work in a well-ventilated area when using oils, turps and enamels.</div>
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<br />Kosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-71121232995403838922015-10-29T20:30:00.001-07:002015-10-29T20:35:53.712-07:00Modern USMC Scout Sniper Team.<div style="text-align: justify;">
These 28mm figures are part of an upcoming set of modern American Marine support and specialist troops that I've been working on. I'll reveal the full set when they're ready for release but in the meantime I'd like to show these off.</div>
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The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barrett_M82" target="_blank">Barrett M82</a> is the same one I made and used for Eureka's <a href="https://eurekamin.com.au/news.php?newsid=EkylZFEuFAJQTJpZVW" target="_blank">28mm Force Recon Marines</a> way back in 2010, but with the addition of a Picatinny rail to bring it up to modern spec.</div>
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<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Modular_Integrated_Communications_Helmet" target="_blank">MICH</a> helmets (without helmet covers) also set these figures apart from Eureka's <a href="https://eurekamin.com.au/news.php?newsid=EFkpFyEyFZXQYMEIvn" target="_blank">28mm Modern US Marines.</a></div>
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The monocle scope with tripod is actually a three piece model and I'm sure I'll find some future sets to incorporate it into. The bipod for the rifle and a small wall-section will be included with the set.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWn7ffQU7UUnp8Q8kOH2OhHW7KW3A71YJftwRTn-09aphjttaYuB6X2dmu1HdFYnO2Br4dOOtF_S1Rpf2cwR4PcVTsPMn8NgKbjhZOHUw3V5sdoALE3cbEtVVKXdxw4snI8PISIg366Hg/s1600/Eureka+28mm+Scout%253ASniper+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWn7ffQU7UUnp8Q8kOH2OhHW7KW3A71YJftwRTn-09aphjttaYuB6X2dmu1HdFYnO2Br4dOOtF_S1Rpf2cwR4PcVTsPMn8NgKbjhZOHUw3V5sdoALE3cbEtVVKXdxw4snI8PISIg366Hg/s400/Eureka+28mm+Scout%253ASniper+01.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Above is the photo that pretty much inspired the set, with
apologies to the lefties/southpaws out there.<br />
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<br />Kosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com21tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-59869115217932373982015-09-04T01:25:00.000-07:002015-09-04T01:26:15.115-07:001960's British Troops in Aden, 28mm - Part 2<div style="text-align: justify;">
Way back in <a href="http://flyinggorilla.blogspot.com.au/2013/04/1960s-british-troops-in-aden-and-south.html" target="_blank">this</a> post, I showed off the first set of 28mm figures intended as the start of a small range</div>
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representing the insurgency in Aden and Southern Arabia in the 1960's.<br />
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I've now finished sculpting another British set, specifically troops of the famous Argyll and Sutherland Highlander regiment.</div>
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Here are some photos of the miniatures - they are a combination of new sculpts, and figures made using the dollies generated for the original set. Of course all wear the glengarry cap, which was such a distinctive uniform feature of the regiment. </div>
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These figures will available from Eureka Miniatures sometime in the near future.<br />
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Thanks go out to my buddy Jake, who was good enough to photograph his glengarry cap for me when I needed additional info to get some details right.<br />
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<br />Kosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-22710682976444971902015-04-23T05:41:00.000-07:002015-04-23T05:42:03.689-07:0028mm Yemeni rebels<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'm back baby!!!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Allow me to share some images of these 28mm 1960s Yemeni rebels that are hot out of the mould. I didn't manage to snap any photos of the greens, so here are the pre-production castings that I've run a black wash over. There are seven figures in this set, which is intended to oppose the <a href="http://flyinggorilla.blogspot.com.au/2013/04/1960s-british-troops-in-aden-and-south.html" target="_blank">British troops in Aden</a> set. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Their attire is perhaps more representative of Yemeni tribesmen in Radfan rather than the urban guerillas that operated in Aden itself, but these fighters wearing traditional dress, including <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janbiya" target="_blank">janbiya</a> were something I'd wanted to sculpt for a long time, so here they are.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh96PUwMy0PkQupuYGWRwmDo1Y-H8gq4KwJ1Pivmc05nVJVRfwtSZztdwjC7yaYk8eSb7qTP1c77mP0pQScNCjJfEYxsS0GUAiNj4Ib513TZTEHAY8k5UVz6NDfGF0AMAoR2NSPGr0pG0w/s1600/28mm+Eureka+Yemeni+tribesmen+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh96PUwMy0PkQupuYGWRwmDo1Y-H8gq4KwJ1Pivmc05nVJVRfwtSZztdwjC7yaYk8eSb7qTP1c77mP0pQScNCjJfEYxsS0GUAiNj4Ib513TZTEHAY8k5UVz6NDfGF0AMAoR2NSPGr0pG0w/s1600/28mm+Eureka+Yemeni+tribesmen+01.jpg" height="276" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Photos from the period show turbans being worn in many different styles, as well as the odd fez, making these figures useful in historical as well as pulp settings - I have to admit I was looking at lots of <span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #252525; line-height: 22px;">HergƩ drawings while sculpting these. </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #252525; line-height: 22px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I did manage to find some good period photos, mainly from the period when these tribesmen were fighting against the Egyptian army in the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/North_Yemen_Civil_War" target="_blank">North Yemen Civil War</a>.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #252525; line-height: 22px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"Give me the child at seven and I will give you the man" is a quote from someplace - These Yemeni stamps have been in my possession since I was a boy, proof of my Dad's ongoing encouragement to get me into stamp collecting. I've modelled the figure with the MG 34 largely on one of these illustrations. There are eight stamps in the set, which I'll post in full at some point in the future.</span></span></div>
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I can't believe that it was back in January that I posted photos of the <a href="http://flyinggorilla.blogspot.com.au/2014/01/28mm-soviet-motorised-infantry.html" target="_blank">first set of 1980s Sov troops. </a> </div>
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The year has flown by, but here is the follow-up set, wearing the Soviet tropical hat - a very popular item of headgear for Soviet troops in Afghanistan.</div>
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These figures also represent Motorised Infantry, so their kit is otherwise identical to the first bunch - body armour, marching boots and chi-com style chest rigs, though some have belts and Y-straps.</div>
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These guys have not been dropped off at Eureka for the mould-making process yet; I still need to add some red stars to their hats and recite some spells over them, but they're nearly there.</div>
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I'm thinking the heavy weapons crews will be next, but that will have to wait 'til next year.</div>
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Kosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-37183634389593305312014-10-23T03:42:00.000-07:002014-10-23T03:43:02.838-07:00Alouette III G-Car<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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This time it's the Alouette G-Car in the spotlight, and just I did with the K-Car in <a href="http://flyinggorilla.blogspot.com.au/2014/07/alouette-lll-k-car.html" target="_blank">this post</a> I will highlight the steps needed the complete <a href="http://www.eurekamin.com.au/" target="_blank">Eureka Miniatures'</a> resin and white metal model. </div>
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The Alouette III helicopter was used by the armed forces of the state of Rhodesia during the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhodesian_Bush_War" target="_blank">Rhodesian Bush War.</a> In its role as a gunship it was known as the K-Car, while as a troop transport it was called the G-Car. The Alouette G-Car could transport a stick of four soldiers and was armed with twin .30 cal machine-guns, making it a crucial element in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fireforce" target="_blank">Fireforce</a> operations.</div>
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Readers may wish to consult the post detailing the construction of the K-Car for steps that I've not covered in this one.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji5T4CJNT2MaohusHYZa-R5m8Zo5Wltga2-GosA8bA45fhvDc53lvbgVJ1LaahM8WyqEnlSNbnROmFnKU6u8q_lADadC_NPxVcJvzL-X2pNzwFUBr9Fbk4nL22v1cG5OspHIJgDIrfZAg/s1600/G-Car+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji5T4CJNT2MaohusHYZa-R5m8Zo5Wltga2-GosA8bA45fhvDc53lvbgVJ1LaahM8WyqEnlSNbnROmFnKU6u8q_lADadC_NPxVcJvzL-X2pNzwFUBr9Fbk4nL22v1cG5OspHIJgDIrfZAg/s1600/G-Car+01.jpg" height="260" width="400" /></a></div>
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After cleaning up the fuselage casting, it's best to test fit seats and figures so that you are clear about where everything is located within the helicopter. Here's a shot of who goes where in the front row. Note how the two troopies are seated facing the back. Although G-Cars could have various seating arrangements, I've recreated what I believe is the most common layout.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4NNUcF18x9_jAwVkpz8gsTHf5T4Jr_uuwwKe5gYbpgavW7ulZMS_qEi4Qgm6kQ7wsVJoGM1cBCxRv2eCYuKZVSUkpLC4Qh_WVoTPNvmCkxAxovRfmaNFKmCh2Lj5a_EJw6x_vXjJdkoI/s1600/G-Car+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4NNUcF18x9_jAwVkpz8gsTHf5T4Jr_uuwwKe5gYbpgavW7ulZMS_qEi4Qgm6kQ7wsVJoGM1cBCxRv2eCYuKZVSUkpLC4Qh_WVoTPNvmCkxAxovRfmaNFKmCh2Lj5a_EJw6x_vXjJdkoI/s1600/G-Car+02.jpg" height="271" width="400" /></a></div>
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The back row and bench seat test fitted. Note the MAG gunner in the left of the photo.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuteCCpMoijLQZt0XxbPdewo5I52ZYcuDeZ3i2st0EbaC330Zf6gwN4uyFNQGuYmrW-hxVcE6ap2ow0Vm74-NKxsviqUWqjIRRgxmVH0YVpSFuAWZq-4i8WzqOL3xgzrBa1aOk0YSgjbo/s1600/G-Car+03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuteCCpMoijLQZt0XxbPdewo5I52ZYcuDeZ3i2st0EbaC330Zf6gwN4uyFNQGuYmrW-hxVcE6ap2ow0Vm74-NKxsviqUWqjIRRgxmVH0YVpSFuAWZq-4i8WzqOL3xgzrBa1aOk0YSgjbo/s1600/G-Car+03.jpg" height="277" width="400" /></a></div>
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It's a little squeezy, but all the figures will fit comfortably inside.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8IvzBaio8pYuwbbt2UOscHg71nXB_bvB0i4ds36gIF8ew_pWFpf3qKZDSBDVaUzuRExRwJZwQntx06gr6dszME0Zz8IRpjUMxPqUd1zXwXLL8wrTZBIk8TgyezZapKIH_Nkszoen6LsU/s1600/G-Car+05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8IvzBaio8pYuwbbt2UOscHg71nXB_bvB0i4ds36gIF8ew_pWFpf3qKZDSBDVaUzuRExRwJZwQntx06gr6dszME0Zz8IRpjUMxPqUd1zXwXLL8wrTZBIk8TgyezZapKIH_Nkszoen6LsU/s1600/G-Car+05.jpg" height="245" width="400" /></a></div>
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The clear canopy must be trimmed and then sanded to fit. I've removed the front door and the sliding door from the left side.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3SHebD9pKsG7MHW7alKw2MO70KVPYXoVgcvN4CHl0XOAdS6_u7Gbo1Jo55dZycs3Yk3wXMN_97-cHE1_Ke11yugBcn7M5aKAw0EgvM_Mq0RIEn7miDfFD984hKYu0MiEkcdPaa5wzcTo/s1600/G-Car+06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3SHebD9pKsG7MHW7alKw2MO70KVPYXoVgcvN4CHl0XOAdS6_u7Gbo1Jo55dZycs3Yk3wXMN_97-cHE1_Ke11yugBcn7M5aKAw0EgvM_Mq0RIEn7miDfFD984hKYu0MiEkcdPaa5wzcTo/s1600/G-Car+06.jpg" height="240" width="400" /></a></div>
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....and on the right side just the sliding door is removed. It's important to do this now to ensure that internal fittings fit properly inside the crew compartment. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIE7yCs8HK1RoQxw2fbifZ6DdUDMdRwKgdgt5PUHpjKssfAU5TfOYiQ7B21mdwN8dSOMXh-YZsIX-L6ReTVkLf_o46RSnaJ3EfhmqDk7FASn_pMi42kjeiq3xBwH1D70KYwGdH0D9N4sU/s1600/G-Car+04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIE7yCs8HK1RoQxw2fbifZ6DdUDMdRwKgdgt5PUHpjKssfAU5TfOYiQ7B21mdwN8dSOMXh-YZsIX-L6ReTVkLf_o46RSnaJ3EfhmqDk7FASn_pMi42kjeiq3xBwH1D70KYwGdH0D9N4sU/s1600/G-Car+04.jpg" height="188" width="400" /></a></div>
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Once it's clear where everything goes, you can start gluing elements together. Start with the foot-rests on both sides of the crew cabin.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQPNgXfXXxKmywCkBEByWb29p-_x8MACDtBtOp_OQl4iWmKN-2QVJiOcimLg_cmfyR4f6lXKOUHErCjArWWwnZc87EUXcgR9_-rxFN_RqvvrGYgpLj3puFIhHCesPwMWwApoOz3UnRNhw/s1600/G-Car+07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQPNgXfXXxKmywCkBEByWb29p-_x8MACDtBtOp_OQl4iWmKN-2QVJiOcimLg_cmfyR4f6lXKOUHErCjArWWwnZc87EUXcgR9_-rxFN_RqvvrGYgpLj3puFIhHCesPwMWwApoOz3UnRNhw/s1600/G-Car+07.jpg" height="236" width="400" /></a></div>
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Glue in the two seats as shown, plus the bench seat and instrument console. Be sure that the instrument console does not foul the clear canopy, and if it does sand the bottom until it fits inside properly.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI15vU_hQlOng3zSZjacTIdTNN-A4hS6ilEXmEZimz4YQCqhN4aLyhgh096KRDbdiUHaawycdZdbVgOD4QcqqEB6XkUWFqMgGwwKu5t63BgeJePsfdzAZZABczH6h76s9WMXuyELrCNRM/s1600/G-Car+08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI15vU_hQlOng3zSZjacTIdTNN-A4hS6ilEXmEZimz4YQCqhN4aLyhgh096KRDbdiUHaawycdZdbVgOD4QcqqEB6XkUWFqMgGwwKu5t63BgeJePsfdzAZZABczH6h76s9WMXuyELrCNRM/s1600/G-Car+08.jpg" height="235" width="400" /></a></div>
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The easiest way to make sure the door gunner mates both with the seat and his guns is to glue his bottom half in place first. The figure sits on the edge of the bench and there is an indentation on his backside so it should be clear where to glue.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNvFdkvzo5bga8laJBnYivS5iVYtwhYyQL2uc0ifOQbMldvDjqxQccrHx3JWVGx9jj5ITUJvKpdKtYN-U97rbPqSJyhutZe3tdCI7KdevIzKnEa9kr0PvS-M-eoyPla4AGohEaSrW9kN0/s1600/G-Car+09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNvFdkvzo5bga8laJBnYivS5iVYtwhYyQL2uc0ifOQbMldvDjqxQccrHx3JWVGx9jj5ITUJvKpdKtYN-U97rbPqSJyhutZe3tdCI7KdevIzKnEa9kr0PvS-M-eoyPla4AGohEaSrW9kN0/s1600/G-Car+09.jpg" height="283" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here the ammo bin is test fitted. The back support of the ammo bin lines up with a scribed line on the floor of the crew compartment. The gunner's left foot should be on the foot-rest.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQRzAGsyr09d9XhRauRVhjoOUpcJ-C1DUpUNNbsJ099bSalp1bXqi4fX52RlQakAS5T9-58w79I_IJLanYg1mDJS38BQGrxbS2L9Gcp4qb2dzRpeUIn9NHlwA8G154AxcsLnIQP-8ODG0/s1600/G-Car+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQRzAGsyr09d9XhRauRVhjoOUpcJ-C1DUpUNNbsJ099bSalp1bXqi4fX52RlQakAS5T9-58w79I_IJLanYg1mDJS38BQGrxbS2L9Gcp4qb2dzRpeUIn9NHlwA8G154AxcsLnIQP-8ODG0/s1600/G-Car+10.jpg" height="221" width="400" /></a></div>
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Crew compartment with elements in place are undercoated along with the figures and painting has begun.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYkq2HmiCMGuzKfBbV40wRKtTCUTkVv6_QOnAkX6nAqF3e4n_DUSb8bn7XvS39_UEaALJq7B9fGixEmDcAQKgjkLwfk1oivPX4LXFqp3D64-PwP31Qh7aVxS8WjInBXkV6jsMkS2Sdefk/s1600/G-Car+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYkq2HmiCMGuzKfBbV40wRKtTCUTkVv6_QOnAkX6nAqF3e4n_DUSb8bn7XvS39_UEaALJq7B9fGixEmDcAQKgjkLwfk1oivPX4LXFqp3D64-PwP31Qh7aVxS8WjInBXkV6jsMkS2Sdefk/s1600/G-Car+11.jpg" height="246" width="400" /></a></div>
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Interior is painted grey and dry-brushed with a light grey, seats as well as the disembodied legs are painted. Paint the rear of the ammo bin, and finish painting the rest of the figures.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMafjRGJWcCmcshOmQKWCkerOKjIZujN0lYQwXam2cNvwAHUAsRTKjnNUiNPDMzC6Maj3KvSCahQbOnXueSENWbF4_NIIAhu183mxwuCg_njoLqnYkRztPx-mSyCXNpSISncCcYBWUCzM/s1600/G-Car+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMafjRGJWcCmcshOmQKWCkerOKjIZujN0lYQwXam2cNvwAHUAsRTKjnNUiNPDMzC6Maj3KvSCahQbOnXueSENWbF4_NIIAhu183mxwuCg_njoLqnYkRztPx-mSyCXNpSISncCcYBWUCzM/s1600/G-Car+12.jpg" height="231" width="400" /></a></div>
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The gunner's upper half as well as the ammo bin are glued into place. I use a 5 minute epoxy for this, giving me time to ensure that everything is fitted together properly. The linked ammunition coming out of the top of the bin will fit snugly onto the insides of the guns.</div>
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You can glue the pilot in at this stage, too.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja-bTNp52Nmggx2SFMaY6nICvU-GS2fphGrj1sm4yEKm642KyWGdQbDSl2vz-wRrFPZreY7NLp9Gs5PmbUWMn6Gmfim2-4eV2QDSyoeepC8FBNvRF_xZ1cEnpp8qexBLyuJTxV82haAb8/s1600/G-Car+13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja-bTNp52Nmggx2SFMaY6nICvU-GS2fphGrj1sm4yEKm642KyWGdQbDSl2vz-wRrFPZreY7NLp9Gs5PmbUWMn6Gmfim2-4eV2QDSyoeepC8FBNvRF_xZ1cEnpp8qexBLyuJTxV82haAb8/s1600/G-Car+13.jpg" height="276" width="400" /></a></div>
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Once the gunner and pilot are in place, glue in the four-man stick. It's wise to test fit them with the canopy in place to make sure everything fits inside.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2fur1ESZ2X2yoKPLjmNpqWFfMVHMB68g6kw7fRlhUxs2DyLIvkipmwaNO2NWVfKhPldnJ9oZNy4rHEEKrSRpordiaHyJIWHGXqB_cfVSLTjp3XlEmsrG-iScsV7KuL7Igd93t07u5JOc/s1600/G-Car+14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2fur1ESZ2X2yoKPLjmNpqWFfMVHMB68g6kw7fRlhUxs2DyLIvkipmwaNO2NWVfKhPldnJ9oZNy4rHEEKrSRpordiaHyJIWHGXqB_cfVSLTjp3XlEmsrG-iScsV7KuL7Igd93t07u5JOc/s1600/G-Car+14.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here's the other side. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtZXTC5bvgMVTDyxVjA_LrriAvGw7EEYLbxUuDUpphXmmcV0fXwcyIyAkL78EyV5wF7Rtv8juijWcDtS9K8FIOFxq19QpYACZq4AI8lHHQnTU5XYgLqMcTD97hcZeNdUwyvMvhrDmXRCI/s1600/G-Car+15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtZXTC5bvgMVTDyxVjA_LrriAvGw7EEYLbxUuDUpphXmmcV0fXwcyIyAkL78EyV5wF7Rtv8juijWcDtS9K8FIOFxq19QpYACZq4AI8lHHQnTU5XYgLqMcTD97hcZeNdUwyvMvhrDmXRCI/s1600/G-Car+15.jpg" height="295" width="400" /></a></div>
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I gave the canopy a wash in some soapy water to remove any grease and dirt accumulated during sanding.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSbEUytHWfLdjr62LW4eDpI7TpIPYpTlvtKb1c3oI1gm-wQiU6hwqQivarAXQTAHeHWTg6PivuHPk1-hrdrQe2NIrinqXGDUmE_a1nFUirNYxzFt1odIJuk-B8GAbNUCLaj9EJbw51E2Y/s1600/G-Car+16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSbEUytHWfLdjr62LW4eDpI7TpIPYpTlvtKb1c3oI1gm-wQiU6hwqQivarAXQTAHeHWTg6PivuHPk1-hrdrQe2NIrinqXGDUmE_a1nFUirNYxzFt1odIJuk-B8GAbNUCLaj9EJbw51E2Y/s1600/G-Car+16.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></div>
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Canopy glued in place.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-ymtkYCbJbNlHLvV_ZrOrtrnjqWZEQEzXN_TJDwAY4eowPf_IhjOYPTfVr-tHjqwEvjHyf-dyZBTWzTTgFWWHGUTL_29DvWWe9PAFaWmGg1x1nyvVr6_tvxUnW5Wd6hRt5ssQOjYdpB8/s1600/G-Car+17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-ymtkYCbJbNlHLvV_ZrOrtrnjqWZEQEzXN_TJDwAY4eowPf_IhjOYPTfVr-tHjqwEvjHyf-dyZBTWzTTgFWWHGUTL_29DvWWe9PAFaWmGg1x1nyvVr6_tvxUnW5Wd6hRt5ssQOjYdpB8/s1600/G-Car+17.jpg" height="290" width="400" /></a></div>
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Masking tape from the hobby shop is once again used to paint the canopy framing. I've added the missing canopy frame with a thin piece of metal cut from a tin can lid.</div>
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The masking ensures a much neater finish than hand painting. I used a Games Workshop acrylic black.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3cGFuzCzUg-ul-LCtalk_bjY60MBQRLcfGjAlQQ4btCuJ2AH15zKaobAVmeh4APRoD7ldrrj2DiC3zs3p6HUrojAvXMDNt4yIDnZa26so9_7S0pP_xInDUiH89sdzHpyST0GZfLCyn64/s1600/G-Car+19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3cGFuzCzUg-ul-LCtalk_bjY60MBQRLcfGjAlQQ4btCuJ2AH15zKaobAVmeh4APRoD7ldrrj2DiC3zs3p6HUrojAvXMDNt4yIDnZa26so9_7S0pP_xInDUiH89sdzHpyST0GZfLCyn64/s1600/G-Car+19.jpg" height="233" width="400" /></a></div>
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A thin line of brown is hand-painted within the black lines.</div>
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With the canopy painted I then glued on the wheels and other external elements.</div>
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I bored a hole for the rod that I use as a flight stand. The ammo bin did not throw out the centre of balance, so the hole is along the centre line, just aft of the crew compartment.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinAQmdoUiG6lELaO7xRjyN7bzUThuadtgTwnVsxMdXINRJs2Hd-JUmWv0GXYWcuS-3SmbCThSzWdm72hz12al6D_BOVuRHJ7TPqcAxmTttN517Lp55gJpeNhLyzxEm1-A132kK-aWfcnc/s1600/G-Car+22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinAQmdoUiG6lELaO7xRjyN7bzUThuadtgTwnVsxMdXINRJs2Hd-JUmWv0GXYWcuS-3SmbCThSzWdm72hz12al6D_BOVuRHJ7TPqcAxmTttN517Lp55gJpeNhLyzxEm1-A132kK-aWfcnc/s1600/G-Car+22.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></div>
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Some putty was used to smooth the join of the tail elements. </div>
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Here's the whole lot test fitted to the flight stand.</div>
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If you use the clear plastic rotor then a small collar is needed to raise it a little off the top of the rotor.</div>
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I've used a little piece of brass rod. You will also need a small nail or suchlike to hold the rotor onto the engine.</div>
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Camouflage paint has been applied and the rotor is on! The gunner looks pretty mean operating the twin MGs.</div>
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In constructing and painting these kits I've found that it's important to be methodical and take one step at a time. Things that fly are generally more tricky than tanks and AFVs to construct, but the end result is some impressive hardware.</div>
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More figures, models and madness soon!</div>
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Kosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-21987765551347939602014-07-23T07:36:00.000-07:002014-07-23T08:34:45.808-07:00Italeri 1/35 scale BMW R 75 with sidecar <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDJUWHG4d9zvIUCVkllTrFDf6U_f7XJ2LC0vMqWSnZdtw4A2iwvu32nk6hmET0v7Y5qNmuR1bgE7uVwC_9I7FhnX4gQUYvFS3m-COejLHwe2atHGZzosU9OdJ4zfE9oXNkZ8NbDk0kAk0/s1600/BMW+R+75+with+sidecar-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDJUWHG4d9zvIUCVkllTrFDf6U_f7XJ2LC0vMqWSnZdtw4A2iwvu32nk6hmET0v7Y5qNmuR1bgE7uVwC_9I7FhnX4gQUYvFS3m-COejLHwe2atHGZzosU9OdJ4zfE9oXNkZ8NbDk0kAk0/s1600/BMW+R+75+with+sidecar-2.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></div>
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I began building and detailing this 1/35 scale Italeri BMW with sidecar many years before the latest-generation kits were available. The etched nickel parts are from The Show Modelling, one of the very first companies to produce aftermarket sets back in the day. Unfortunately Show Modelling's offering only provided enough etched spokes for two wheels and so for the sidecar wheel and spare wheel I have adapted some etched brass spokes intended for a WW1 biplane.</div>
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Annoyingly, it was well into the build before I got my hands on some decent reference, Wings & Wheels Publications photo book on the subject.</div>
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After the wee beastie had spent some <b>y-e-a-r-s</b> in a box I picked up (or more precisely ordered off the internet, which had been erm, <i>invented</i> in the meantime) the new Great Wall kits, but somehow I knew that I had to complete the Italeri kit that I'd started all that time ago. I therefore determined that I would complete the model and do so without looting any parts from the more modern BMW kits that I had acquired. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaobt8YJcGzPJ0qzESFQHIU9kAZwbLZBwqp1u0a1V-mvZYtRr4FVdsBIQPiHt0yWyVBR0mZSoWDwGzfn7NpVyr5PJ2yKH0GGqKDf-7zTedXxukEKDWVP-vfa9WRS7iXvQNjRx35W-A8Jw/s1600/BMW+rider+WIP+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaobt8YJcGzPJ0qzESFQHIU9kAZwbLZBwqp1u0a1V-mvZYtRr4FVdsBIQPiHt0yWyVBR0mZSoWDwGzfn7NpVyr5PJ2yKH0GGqKDf-7zTedXxukEKDWVP-vfa9WRS7iXvQNjRx35W-A8Jw/s1600/BMW+rider+WIP+01.jpg" height="368" width="400" /></a></div>
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I was originally planning a Fallschirmjager crew for the bike but changed my mind and decided on an Eastern Front theme and have also partially sculpted the rider. The legs and head are from a Dragon figure set, my usual Green Stuff/Milliput mix for the rest of him.</div>
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I have a bunch more 1/35 scale projects in the pipeline which I hope to get stuck into between my 28mm sculpting duties.<br />
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A big thank you to my friend Vinnie who took the photos in this post. He usually shoots much more action-packed scenes and you can check out his photography site <a href="http://www.photoluminessence.com/">here.</a><br />
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Kosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-13426093668648847662014-07-21T01:19:00.000-07:002014-07-21T01:35:05.620-07:00Alouette lll K-Car <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsW-4eR27QprakkKR0CWzctZp7MPogF87VNqGZJLpGhfUAK4pMVJ5Rg6E6w-jcQ16bpzJNrZ_se7lx3NM6UsN8uMMNzh1YCNBBCiiZv_S7QRBAzD6Q4gwDqVuJSxoV63bxVY8OWX0MrpM/s1600/K-Car+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsW-4eR27QprakkKR0CWzctZp7MPogF87VNqGZJLpGhfUAK4pMVJ5Rg6E6w-jcQ16bpzJNrZ_se7lx3NM6UsN8uMMNzh1YCNBBCiiZv_S7QRBAzD6Q4gwDqVuJSxoV63bxVY8OWX0MrpM/s1600/K-Car+01.jpg" height="310" width="640" /></a></div>
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The Alouette K-Car from Eureka Miniatures has been designed for use with Eureka's 28mm Bush Wars figures and is scaled at 1/52. I have been asked why Eureka chose this scale and it is simply because 1/52 is the half-way point between 1/56 and 1/48 scales - the most common scales for vehicles and aircraft used by wargamers with 28mm miniatures.</div>
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The helicopter itself has been mastered by Uncle Les while I have sculpted the figures and weapon system. From the beginning we had decided to opt for a clear canopy which, though making construction a little more complicated, we felt was the only way to represent the helicopter in this scale.</div>
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I have taken a series of photos throughout the build process and while I have not photographed every step they are intended to show what's involved in the completion of this model. Modellers may need to to try out some techniques that are new to them to complete their Alouette but the result is a most impressive model.</div>
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Nic has informed me that Eureka are currently out of stock of both the K-Car and G-car Alouettes. I know that many of these kits have been shipped to guys through Eureka's 100 Club and my intention is that these photos will be a help to anyone starting the model. The kit itself also comes with an excellent set of printed instructions put together by Uncle Les.</div>
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Please note that I have replaced the rotors that come with the kit with some clear acetate. All secrets will be explained below!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcxyxW0pWnfy_ip8zih6lfzo883bYow0lxVvQVrn4zBKCeqDueIu-xDtB_vOL6zHIfOwepAiD5KprVvTeiV-VJjwkrO1SS9n0h6A_tes58_3SiK6_22N5Jdj3115TlbrMyJTsH_EqjHes/s1600/K-Car+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcxyxW0pWnfy_ip8zih6lfzo883bYow0lxVvQVrn4zBKCeqDueIu-xDtB_vOL6zHIfOwepAiD5KprVvTeiV-VJjwkrO1SS9n0h6A_tes58_3SiK6_22N5Jdj3115TlbrMyJTsH_EqjHes/s1600/K-Car+02.jpg" height="280" width="640" /></a></div>
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Completed Rhodesian Air Force Alouette III K-Car.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidwWrPZ8sJ9x01AxKGZGONIGrNURupLLC2lC8pAC5aMUNWvqqLk5da6Tid8vKGzp6hzVpe-Ybd17Fyfd7js59P-wWgYdql6c3ejizrLrmf85ChjfY7WtWC7myUZZTX8fwnC-Bx9eOAUV0/s1600/K-Car+03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidwWrPZ8sJ9x01AxKGZGONIGrNURupLLC2lC8pAC5aMUNWvqqLk5da6Tid8vKGzp6hzVpe-Ybd17Fyfd7js59P-wWgYdql6c3ejizrLrmf85ChjfY7WtWC7myUZZTX8fwnC-Bx9eOAUV0/s1600/K-Car+03.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></div>
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The major pieces will have resin casting blocks which will need to be removed. In the above photo the casting blocks have been removed and putty is being used to fill in some air bubbles in the underside.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbCIBGThH1zALJtpnQF0YtSRAdjUqS9zL17PYYn_jf4QmwlCprlivxAUPMCVXzEoEggEEHOpNRQlRk79ngz_4kAJrw26-s_rdVWf6jQdjoeAaEpYgZjvHQgndTf-KnyLgDG87OJgutCKo/s1600/K-Car+04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbCIBGThH1zALJtpnQF0YtSRAdjUqS9zL17PYYn_jf4QmwlCprlivxAUPMCVXzEoEggEEHOpNRQlRk79ngz_4kAJrw26-s_rdVWf6jQdjoeAaEpYgZjvHQgndTf-KnyLgDG87OJgutCKo/s1600/K-Car+04.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here are two undersides, the putty on the one on the right has been sanded smooth with sandpaper. Take care not to fill in the locating holes for the steps. The K-car has a small step on each side.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZtHBYnqNNu3GUpcDN0mwyuIfMSgnoZoC-xLk7FBLEXgaGJP6eRk9Lj1VkEPZcjjUEt_2oRlX0KLQfLTEHV_hcgc19KcpB5gSBZ5B-vu9TsBQH4UfemQheLN8ffnEsy2c60KsfzdMfipw/s1600/K-Car+05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZtHBYnqNNu3GUpcDN0mwyuIfMSgnoZoC-xLk7FBLEXgaGJP6eRk9Lj1VkEPZcjjUEt_2oRlX0KLQfLTEHV_hcgc19KcpB5gSBZ5B-vu9TsBQH4UfemQheLN8ffnEsy2c60KsfzdMfipw/s1600/K-Car+05.jpg" height="290" width="400" /></a></div>
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Construct the gunner and his 20mm cannon next, as seen above. Leave off the ammo feed as this is best glued into the cannon once final placement in the helicopter has been ascertained.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaDRrRcSxrCh_bThLsM5wXvRlbrgX7DIHLtVy_4liId_wWFQoODHL7iq-J3EGsPeEj8yeoJ7z4XtVTV3tYQ_UHkhGmXx3xl0of9oikvY3C5Iu3lEUbqygr7rOtkAZq0_NQ-AzRA-JwCM0/s1600/K-Car+06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaDRrRcSxrCh_bThLsM5wXvRlbrgX7DIHLtVy_4liId_wWFQoODHL7iq-J3EGsPeEj8yeoJ7z4XtVTV3tYQ_UHkhGmXx3xl0of9oikvY3C5Iu3lEUbqygr7rOtkAZq0_NQ-AzRA-JwCM0/s1600/K-Car+06.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></div>
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The vac-formed canopy is excellent and will fit very snugly, but first the excess plastic must be trimmed and sanded. If you have not tackled a vac-formed canopy before, the trick is to remove the bulk of the excess plastic with a small set of scissors. After that you can sand off the rest, checking for fit regularly. I used a small cutting disk in a Dremel rather than scissors to cut off the excess clear plastic then sanded on a piece of sand paper layed flat on the workbench. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOnbiCJfx1ekDwhRHGnF1FH5ns6xRQoKQ2zR87AHiSXqOsZCeavENA7fKEgL_rr9zcXL1Iao4ap-w4qE8pDBVZExaDbzIc9t4Qev4aEpZggl82308k5uqVs7SLw2B-kSCYBdufs0fFUMo/s1600/K-Car+07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOnbiCJfx1ekDwhRHGnF1FH5ns6xRQoKQ2zR87AHiSXqOsZCeavENA7fKEgL_rr9zcXL1Iao4ap-w4qE8pDBVZExaDbzIc9t4Qev4aEpZggl82308k5uqVs7SLw2B-kSCYBdufs0fFUMo/s1600/K-Car+07.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></div>
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Once the canopy trimmed and sanded to shape the passengers and seats can be test-fitted. The pilot sits on the right-hand side. Next to him, but facing the rear and on an angle, is the K-car commander. In the back is the gunner and 20mm cannon. The centre console is between the pilot and commander.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi_-MZvfkvM9WoS7U8FFQHrFcdZ4n_YC_YJNcZJfPzrT5ixHhHA5QYfndHvueGCQken_T0g6YEPaPAJu0FaiMXFN-E5HOb_7DjRHdkRxyjNaRS0qvIsJjJ134mVM2DZWvQqR9qA66hP7c/s1600/K-Car+08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi_-MZvfkvM9WoS7U8FFQHrFcdZ4n_YC_YJNcZJfPzrT5ixHhHA5QYfndHvueGCQken_T0g6YEPaPAJu0FaiMXFN-E5HOb_7DjRHdkRxyjNaRS0qvIsJjJ134mVM2DZWvQqR9qA66hP7c/s1600/K-Car+08.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></div>
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It's important to make sure that passengers and console fit and to not foul the top of the canopy, so check carefully that the canopy sits properly. You may need to sand the bottom of the centre console so that it is not too tall.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD1OCNo7p3NSBJam70uD6xWzOgVK4u1uyL_875IfZ4CQJKNWlXny6NPztCUKsYX-rNV0IqVoNGxors2E9frKbzxYbmk68sjOr64sPP79hevYLt1W6VvJgopHgMeSZbnvhG1j3YPSsMfVU/s1600/K-Car+09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD1OCNo7p3NSBJam70uD6xWzOgVK4u1uyL_875IfZ4CQJKNWlXny6NPztCUKsYX-rNV0IqVoNGxors2E9frKbzxYbmk68sjOr64sPP79hevYLt1W6VvJgopHgMeSZbnvhG1j3YPSsMfVU/s1600/K-Car+09.jpg" height="295" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here you can see the placement of the passengers.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM67ffN__O3zs_tVKAWNtxEU2X69FAbiCldXTMqsK0aC-NI5qhTU8tHL_1jxMSurzMSMfyFeA7r29vAkjBWj0JZ1BjqYdOT91b-2nK_mZ0tC0jcg4buK3xAxhKWyjpExQoowCp295QlYY/s1600/K-Car+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM67ffN__O3zs_tVKAWNtxEU2X69FAbiCldXTMqsK0aC-NI5qhTU8tHL_1jxMSurzMSMfyFeA7r29vAkjBWj0JZ1BjqYdOT91b-2nK_mZ0tC0jcg4buK3xAxhKWyjpExQoowCp295QlYY/s1600/K-Car+10.jpg" height="276" width="400" /></a></div>
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....and here the pilot and commander's seats have been glued into place, along with the centre console.</div>
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At this point the interior can be painted a dark grey. Also note how I use the handles of my tin-snips as a simple platform to keep the model level while checking everything.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvTxNABBtSPbkGN7cd1sc7d-gLjqVahaWERzaDf4HA_V04C3aqbCMpA0gSsqeetwVihHVAVioYvzob2DKfkJF4kKlY5b51iO1M1vtH1CEYP17q80A0pSt82rQ_9XSnCOMP8xSbXf2FL3c/s1600/K-Car+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvTxNABBtSPbkGN7cd1sc7d-gLjqVahaWERzaDf4HA_V04C3aqbCMpA0gSsqeetwVihHVAVioYvzob2DKfkJF4kKlY5b51iO1M1vtH1CEYP17q80A0pSt82rQ_9XSnCOMP8xSbXf2FL3c/s1600/K-Car+11.jpg" height="268" width="400" /></a></div>
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In order to fit the model onto a flight stand, a hole must be drilled into the bottom of the fuselage. Please note that a fight stand is not provided with the kit. I'm using perspex rod for the flight stand, here checking that the hole I've bored is the right size. The point of balance is just aft of the crew compartment but remember to check this with passenger figures and cannon tacked into place, since they are cast in white metal and thus relatively heavy.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRCGs-dMGdpGtwPw2B8dC6V7A6SUmrrgrbfNh7h5r6dnEO94bVsG3eKJhAJKQv8H8t0xJTwNCC2KJyBxhrRq0TccIuwRu9tVYG0nrNl84o500pVgARZeb8UXz3CEy9aKjEVmVzUafwQ3I/s1600/K-Car+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRCGs-dMGdpGtwPw2B8dC6V7A6SUmrrgrbfNh7h5r6dnEO94bVsG3eKJhAJKQv8H8t0xJTwNCC2KJyBxhrRq0TccIuwRu9tVYG0nrNl84o500pVgARZeb8UXz3CEy9aKjEVmVzUafwQ3I/s1600/K-Car+12.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></div>
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The passengers are painted in preparation for final placement. It can be seen that the gunner is already glued onto his seat. Gunner, cannon, and gunner's seat are much easier to place in this way.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvLlFhyc2Ag1Iw0Cxcs45C92-wW36jYpNpuGjEe56bGJLLddjB89VKJ5lJKNAGxMZv5Vno2EIIzzb7cCRTzxOKFGfSJIAC6sIFVZ1E5JYZkkUlmT7GyOKZeg90oLjHT9WhpbwyRPTn9u4/s1600/K-Car+13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvLlFhyc2Ag1Iw0Cxcs45C92-wW36jYpNpuGjEe56bGJLLddjB89VKJ5lJKNAGxMZv5Vno2EIIzzb7cCRTzxOKFGfSJIAC6sIFVZ1E5JYZkkUlmT7GyOKZeg90oLjHT9WhpbwyRPTn9u4/s1600/K-Car+13.jpg" height="236" width="400" /></a></div>
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I used a 5 minute epoxy to glue the passengers in place. This gives plenty of time to fit the ammo feed into the left side of the cannon and tack the other end into the firewall with some super glue.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzNA3tmGdtKd6HgCXkwXsOs1-Fu3gZhZcbjNyvBSY17-sDb-DiyPI1texuiKyeaD3zzcshtU15eqcJ4ylnbn8QoRAf-gFImHiG1zVQxyh5GQa_MP5Fi_QohtHZKapmunUDiDwI8hcXBvU/s1600/K-Car+14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzNA3tmGdtKd6HgCXkwXsOs1-Fu3gZhZcbjNyvBSY17-sDb-DiyPI1texuiKyeaD3zzcshtU15eqcJ4ylnbn8QoRAf-gFImHiG1zVQxyh5GQa_MP5Fi_QohtHZKapmunUDiDwI8hcXBvU/s1600/K-Car+14.jpg" height="262" width="400" /></a></div>
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It should all look like this.</div>
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Once all that's done the canopy is glued into place. Again, I used Araldite (5 minute epoxy) for this, gluing on one half at a time. Alternatively, the fit of the canopy is snug enough to use white glue for this purpose. Do not use super glue as the fumes that come off it as it dries can fog clear plastic.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF3BL3sHPvBdBlhxab0hvUUlM0EHHuacgW-A4ZbDjL_shiBzHyf-eIbxHmHj_tvofQRGl3mqDY_zUqxJAFz9SYoCeaXEqVpeSEt_H3EXP_47ZxMrdkys4rO9RwgzgJA3YU1VQ39JHBQ9Q/s1600/K-Car+16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF3BL3sHPvBdBlhxab0hvUUlM0EHHuacgW-A4ZbDjL_shiBzHyf-eIbxHmHj_tvofQRGl3mqDY_zUqxJAFz9SYoCeaXEqVpeSEt_H3EXP_47ZxMrdkys4rO9RwgzgJA3YU1VQ39JHBQ9Q/s1600/K-Car+16.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></div>
Access steps, wheel-struts and wheels are glued in place.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiRujFaPpoB7ePGlu4lZbsTslkRqhpwAcpwj5VkX23MMbDrooXubH5ErqyVrR5_s5LNjjwvdhxAuBgjtuy4MlIllgffT_pLI61L0kO5n7jZPA35geP5YMd8ugvOyjF4TIAWgnQQo4q1To/s1600/K-Car+17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiRujFaPpoB7ePGlu4lZbsTslkRqhpwAcpwj5VkX23MMbDrooXubH5ErqyVrR5_s5LNjjwvdhxAuBgjtuy4MlIllgffT_pLI61L0kO5n7jZPA35geP5YMd8ugvOyjF4TIAWgnQQo4q1To/s1600/K-Car+17.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></div>
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Any small gaps need to be filled at this point. I used some putty under the nose and around the wheel-struts to impart some extra strength.</div>
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The model will stand on it's wheels, but since mine will end up on a flight stand the undercarriage strength is not critical. Tail skid and engine parts are to be sorted at this stage. I have left the engine off for painting.</div>
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Painting begins with the canopy. Canopy frames were masked and painted black ( I used a Games Workshop acrylic for this). This is time consuming but the end result is much neater than painting them freehand. Masking tapes available from hobby shops have excellent adhesion and flexibility and will be much easier to use that household masking tape. Once the black was all done I freehand painted the brown base colour in a thin line in the centre of each canopy frame - it sounds harder than it is and gives a nice result. Overall colour I used was Humbrol 29 Dark Earth. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaHlZfCPm2Cb12OpSNV9CcH6-UPH0lvDQmYVnoTYbgv34kbNkZ9nACEFokH2lZWWYRCxpoLvlibuWNv-pyIQR2-ZwxwowDIQfS7Q53B49gk1pNmMYBPDT67Ek4-xOgqxgLQdXZIE3jaes/s1600/K-Car+20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaHlZfCPm2Cb12OpSNV9CcH6-UPH0lvDQmYVnoTYbgv34kbNkZ9nACEFokH2lZWWYRCxpoLvlibuWNv-pyIQR2-ZwxwowDIQfS7Q53B49gk1pNmMYBPDT67Ek4-xOgqxgLQdXZIE3jaes/s1600/K-Car+20.jpg" height="256" width="400" /></a></div>
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I decided to replace the kit rotors with some clear plastic. This thick acetate was picked up at an art supply shop and cost me about three dollars. The yellow and black object in the above photo is a circle cutter, a very useful bit of kit which was used to cut out the tail rotor. The main rotor was unfortunately too big for my little circle cutter. I drew around a plate from the kitchen with a Sharpie, then cut this out with a pair of scissors. In the centre can be seen a small attachment that fits into my compass and allows me to draw circles using paint. I used this to paint the red and yellow circles on the clear plastic using acrylic paint.</div>
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Here is the flight stand in its naked form. A blob of white metal provides weight and is glued onto a cardboard base. I had bought a few lengths of perspex rod for flight stands ages ago and here have finally put some of it to use.</div>
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The yellow and red rotor effect brightens up the model. The base of the flight stand has had groundwork added. The model is finished!</div>
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So there it is folks. I will tackle the G-car soon.</div>
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Please remember that breathing in resin dust is to be avoided. Always wear a dust filter mask and wet down your wet and dry/sandpaper when working with resin.</div>
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Safe and happy modelling to all.</div>
<br />Kosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3093453172525130621.post-80194580751888289332014-04-06T18:32:00.001-07:002014-07-21T01:20:22.926-07:0028mm Rhodesian African Rifles<div style="text-align: justify;">
The Rhodesian African Rifles (RAR) was one of the key government units of the Rhodesian Bush War. Operating in the Fireforce role, troops could be both heli- and par-borne in their actions against ZIPRA and ZANLA insurgents. </div>
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Here are the first eight figures in what will eventually be set of thirteen, made up of three 'sticks' of four plus a European officer.</div>
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Those attending Salute in the UK will have the opportunity to pick up a set from the Eureka Miniatures stand where Nic Robson will have a limited number of sets available.</div>
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I would very much like to thank military and aviation artist John Wynne Hopkins for sharing both his photos and his generous advice. John Wynne Hopkins served in 3 platoon (Simanjemanje), Acoy 1 RAR and was the last European Adjutant in the Battalion. The miniatures are much more accurate thanks to John's help.</div>
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You can also check out John's wargaming blog <a href="http://johnwynnehopkins.wordpress.com/">here</a>.</div>
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These figures have been much anticipated so thanks everybody for your patience! </div>
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<br />Kosta Herkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08277522446791515420noreply@blogger.com6