Thursday, 29 October 2015

Modern USMC Scout Sniper Team.

These 28mm figures are part of an upcoming set of modern American Marine support and specialist troops that I've been working on. I'll reveal the full set when they're ready for release but in the meantime I'd like to show these off.

The Barrett M82 is the same one I made and used for Eureka's 28mm Force Recon Marines way back in 2010, but with the addition of a Picatinny rail to bring it up to modern spec.

MICH helmets (without helmet covers) also set these figures apart from Eureka's 28mm Modern US Marines.

The monocle scope with tripod is actually a three piece model and I'm sure I'll find some future sets to incorporate it into. The bipod for the rifle and a small wall-section will be included with the set.


Above is the photo that pretty much inspired the set, with apologies to the lefties/southpaws out there.






Friday, 4 September 2015

1960's British Troops in Aden, 28mm - Part 2

Way back in this  post, I showed off the first set of 28mm figures intended as the start of a small range
representing the insurgency in Aden and Southern Arabia in the 1960's.

I've now finished sculpting another British set, specifically troops of the famous Argyll and Sutherland Highlander regiment.

Here are some photos of the miniatures - they are a combination of new sculpts, and figures made using the dollies generated for the original set. Of course all wear the glengarry cap, which was such a distinctive uniform feature of the regiment. 







These figures will available from Eureka Miniatures sometime in the near future.

Thanks go out to my buddy Jake, who was good enough to photograph his glengarry cap for me when I needed additional info to get some details right.




Thursday, 23 April 2015

28mm Yemeni rebels

I'm back baby!!!

Allow me to share some images of these 28mm 1960s Yemeni rebels that are hot out of the mould. I didn't manage to snap any photos of the greens, so here are the pre-production castings that I've run a black wash over. There are seven figures in this set, which is intended to oppose the British troops in Aden set. 

Their attire is perhaps more representative of Yemeni tribesmen in Radfan rather than the urban guerillas that operated in Aden itself, but these fighters wearing traditional dress, including janbiya were something I'd wanted to sculpt for a long time, so here they are.



Photos from the period show turbans being worn in many different styles, as well as the odd fez, making these figures useful in historical as well as pulp settings - I have to admit I was looking at lots of HergĂ© drawings while sculpting these. 

I did manage to find some good period photos, mainly from the period when these tribesmen were fighting against the Egyptian army in the North Yemen Civil War.

"Give me the child at seven and I will give you the man" is a quote from someplace - These Yemeni stamps have been in my possession since I was a boy, proof of my Dad's ongoing encouragement to get me into stamp collecting. I've modelled the figure with the MG 34 largely on one of these illustrations. There are eight stamps in the set, which I'll post in full at some point in the future.




Sunday, 16 November 2014

Baggy trousers part 2 : More 28mm Soviet Motorised Infantry

I can't believe that it was back in January that I posted photos of the first set of 1980s Sov troops.  
The year has flown by, but here is the follow-up set, wearing the Soviet tropical hat - a very popular item of headgear for Soviet troops in Afghanistan.

These figures also represent Motorised Infantry, so their kit is otherwise identical to the first bunch - body armour, marching boots and chi-com style chest rigs, though some have belts and Y-straps.



These guys have not been dropped off at Eureka for the mould-making process yet; I still need to add some red stars to their hats and recite some spells over them, but they're nearly there.

I'm thinking the heavy weapons crews will be next, but that will have to wait 'til next year.

Thursday, 23 October 2014

Alouette III G-Car


This time it's the Alouette G-Car in the spotlight, and just I did with the K-Car in this post I will highlight the steps needed the complete Eureka Miniatures' resin and white metal model. 

The Alouette III helicopter was used by the armed forces of the state of Rhodesia during the Rhodesian Bush War. In its role as a gunship it was known as the K-Car, while as a troop transport it was called the G-Car. The Alouette G-Car could transport a stick of four soldiers and was armed with twin .30 cal machine-guns, making it a crucial element in Fireforce operations.

Readers may wish to  consult the post detailing the construction of the K-Car for steps that I've not covered in this one.


After cleaning up the fuselage casting, it's best to test fit seats and figures so that you are clear about where everything is located within the helicopter. Here's a shot of who goes where in the front row. Note how the two troopies are seated facing the back. Although G-Cars could have various seating arrangements, I've recreated what I believe is the most common layout.


The back row and bench seat test fitted. Note the MAG gunner in the left of the photo.


It's a little squeezy, but all the figures will fit comfortably inside.


The clear canopy must be trimmed and then sanded to fit. I've removed the front door and the sliding door from the left side.


....and on the right side just the sliding door is removed. It's important to do this now to ensure that internal fittings fit properly inside the crew compartment. 


Once it's clear where everything goes, you can start gluing elements together. Start with the foot-rests on both sides of the crew cabin.


Glue in the two seats as shown, plus the bench seat and instrument console. Be sure that the instrument console does not foul the clear canopy, and if it does sand the bottom until it fits inside properly.


The easiest way to make sure the door gunner mates both with the seat and his guns is to glue his bottom half in place first. The figure sits on the edge of the bench and there is an indentation on his backside so it should be clear where to glue.


Here the ammo bin is test fitted. The back support of the ammo bin lines up with a scribed line on the floor of the crew compartment. The gunner's left foot should be on the foot-rest.


Crew compartment with elements in place are undercoated along with the figures and painting has begun.


Interior is painted grey and dry-brushed with a light grey, seats as well as the disembodied legs are painted. Paint the rear of the ammo bin, and finish painting the rest of the figures.


The gunner's upper half as well as the ammo bin are glued into place. I use a 5 minute epoxy for this, giving me time to ensure that everything is fitted together properly. The linked ammunition coming out of the top of the bin will fit snugly onto the insides of the guns.
You can glue the pilot in at this stage, too.


Once the gunner and pilot are in place, glue in the four-man stick. It's wise to test fit them with the canopy in place to make sure everything fits inside.


Here's the other side. 


I gave the canopy a wash in some soapy water to remove any grease and dirt accumulated during sanding.


Canopy glued in place.


Masking tape from the hobby shop is once again used to paint the canopy framing. I've added the missing canopy frame with a thin piece of metal cut from a tin can lid.


The masking ensures a much neater finish than hand painting. I used a Games Workshop acrylic black.


A thin line of brown is hand-painted within the black lines.


With the canopy painted I then glued on the wheels and other external elements.


I bored a hole for the rod that I use as a flight stand. The ammo bin did not throw out the centre of balance, so the hole is along the centre line, just aft of the crew compartment.


Some putty was used to smooth the join of the tail elements. 


Here's the whole lot test fitted to the flight stand.


If you use the clear plastic rotor then a small collar is needed to raise it a little off the top of the rotor.
I've used a little piece of brass rod. You will also need a small nail or suchlike to hold the rotor onto the engine.


Camouflage paint has been applied and the rotor is on! The gunner looks pretty mean operating the twin MGs.





In constructing and painting these kits I've found that it's important to be methodical and take one step at a time. Things that fly are generally more tricky than tanks and AFVs to construct, but the end result is some impressive hardware.

More figures, models and madness soon!